Article: Lifestyles Magazine Prague: Couture Uncovered
Although St Martins has been located just a stone’s throw from Prague’s National Theater for seven years now, there’s a good reason why you may not have heard of it before. Customers who have had the good fortune to stumble on the store (usually while lost in the maze of laneways south of Narodní Street) keep it a closely guarded secret even from their closest friends, and often admit as much to the proprietor Alena Jarauschová.
The store is a treasure trove for anyone seeking something less ordinary in sartorially conservative Prague. Alena constantly updates the stock with the highly progressive Danish brands S’NOB, st-martins and Margit Brandt. These are labels for creative people who want to look different.
The collections currently in stock have something to appeal to everyone for every occasion, from the most flattering khaki trousers and summer tops to little black dresses and structured jackets with pop-art details. Fabrics for this season are soft and wearable, yet the shapes are defined and elegant so the wearer can achieve a polished look with minimum fuss.
The 2007 collection from the st-martins brand has been inspired by the punk era, with fun details such as punk slogans, candy-striped buttons and printed silk linings adorning pieces that feature strong lines and classic tailoring. Beautifully cut jackets, tops and dresses manage to combine the (extremely flattering) advantages of contemporary Japanese design with the attitude of 1970s London. The color palette for this season features bold contrasts such as red, bright yellow, black, gray, cream and a range of blues that any punk rocker would be proud to display in his Mohawk.
S’NOB’s seasonal range draws its inspiration from the post-punk 1980s, putting a modern twist on Dennis the Menace-style stripes by using soft jersey fabrics, playing with linear proportions and volume and adding luxury touches, such as silk straps on dresses. Gray marled jersey pieces pay tribute to the sportswear of the ‘80s but the silhouettes are bang up to date, with this season’s shift towards higher waistlines very much in evidence.
Soft, easy-to-wear dresses make the dream of effortless elegance a reality, with shades of indigo and striking black-and-white stripes for daytime and a new take on black for after-dark panache. More structured dresses and jackets take full advantage of the charms of simple washed linen, with a highly feminine take on functional masculine tailoring.
Legendary Danish designer Margit Brandt’s current collection harks back to the late 1960s and early ‘70s. The tone is decidedly feminine with a focus on beautifully cut separates featuring retro prints in muted rust, beige and cream tones. The designers feels that “fashion should flatter and make people look young, no matter what their age.” This is a line that will appeal to everyone, from prematurely discerning teens to ladies of a certain age.
That’s one of the great attractions of the St Martins store. No one can fail to find something that will make them feel like a fashion plate. And when your friends ask how you always manage to find such exquisite and unusual outfits in a city more famous for its beer than its cuttingedge couture, just give them a knowing smile and keep them guessing.
