A rich history and cultural heritage—plus limitless natural beauty—converge in Central Bohemia

The area west of Prague is often considered the true heart of Bohemia—a label that makes sense given it sheer volume of ancient settlements, historical centers characterized at once by fine churches and imposing burgher homes, and the well-preserved remains of castles, chateaux, and fortresses.
A good starting point for a day trip is charming Kutná Hora, a mere 70 kilometers east of Prague. While guidebooks primarily tout the village’s chilling bone church and the majestic St. Barbara’s Church as must-sees, Kutná Hora’s Museum of Silver offers an adventure not to be missed. Most of the shafts here were flooded in the 17th century, marking the demise of the silver mining era; Kutná Hora’s silver riches gave Prague’s grandeur a run for its money. A terrace of St. Barbara’s church was even designed to resemble Charles Bridge, so much so that a photo caption in a British newspaper once misidentified it as the Prague landmark.

For those more daring adventurers, Koněprusy Cave, located just five kilometers south of Beroun, descend as far as 70 meters into the stalactite caves. During the 15th century, forgers ran an illegal minting operation in the cave, bypassing Kutná Hora’s royal monopoly. Part of the original mint workshop is still intact. Koněprusy’s underground labyrinth is located amidsts the Bohemian Karst Nature Reserve, 15 kilometers southwest of Prague. It features beautiful canyons, limestone caves, and vast stretches of forest and meadows.

Another popular hiking destination in the area is Svatý Jan pod Skalou, or “St John under the Cliff,” just a 40-minute bus ride from Prague’s Zličín station. Ascend the cliff using the makeshift stairs carved into the rocks, then take a break at Obecná Škola—not the village’s elementary school as the name suggests, but a local restaurant, serving up some fine Czech cuisine and beer on tap.

A monastery with an illustrious history stands in the shadow of the imposing 159-meter-high cliff. At the turn of the 20th century, it served as a spa before the Germans turned it into a forced labor camp in 1949 and, later, a jail. The communist secret police, who must have liked the secluded location, even trained agents here. Today, the building houses a teacher-training.

Pop over to the church of St. John the Baptist next door to see the cave where Ivan, son of a duke, lived as a hermit for 42 years during the 9th century. According to local legend, Ivan was tempted by demons to leave the cave, but St. John the Baptist one day appeared and him gave Ivan a wooden crosslet to drive the evil spirits away. The church’s main altar depicts this scene. Above the altar hangs a cross that originally stood on the Charles Bridge. Pilgrims from Prague’s Old Town donated it to the church. Before you leave fortify with mineral water from the saint’s hot spring.

Romantics might want to visit the Baroque-style chateau in Mnichovo Hradiště on the outskirts of the Bohemian Paradise region. It houses the Wallenstein Library was once tended by the world-famous womanizer Casanova who oversaw its 20,000 books, alchemy, and herb collections during the waning years of his life. To relieve his boredom, he wrote his 12-volume memoirs under the pseudonym Chevalier de Seingalt from 1785 until his death in 1798. NPR commentator and essayist Andrei Codrescu’s novel Casanova in Bohemia is a must-read for those planning a journey here.

Take a moment to reflect at the neighboring Capuchin Monastery, where Albrecht von Wallenstein is buried in St. Anna’s chapel. The famous general, immortalized by German playwright Schiller, fought on the side of Holy Roman Emperor Friedrich II during the devastating Thirty Years’ War. Accused of treason, he was later assassinated on the emperor’s behalf in Cheb, a town in western Bohemia.

Art lovers will want to visit Château Třebešice, just five kilometers from Kutná Hora. The chateau’s summer residency program is a magnet for those in the visual and performing art community. Another site of artistic inspiration is the Dobříš chateau, located 35 kilometers from Prague. During communist times, many writers retreated to the chateau, then owned by the Czech Writers’ Club.

In 1998, Dobříš was returned to the descendants of its original owners, the Colloredo-Mannsfeld family. Changed to rococo style the 18th century, the chateau has three wings and boasts terraced French and English gardens, complete with sculptures and a large waterfall. The setting is reminiscent of Vienna’s Schönnbrunn Palace. Visitors can peek into 11 neo-classical and rococo rooms during a tour of the chateau. And if chateaus aren’t really your cup of tea, there is an excellent exhibition of historical motorcycles at Zámek Dobříš.

Pilgrimage to Příbram

The 343 stairs rising up from the town of middle Bohemia town of Příbram lead to Svatá Hora (“Holy Mountain”) the oldest pilgrimage site in the Czech Republic. The chapel on Svatá Hora, originally a simple Renaissance building, dates back to the early 16th century. But the Virgin Mary and Infant sculpture therein, the icon to which upwards of 25,000 pilgrims once paid homage was created by Archbishop Arnošt in the mid-14th century. Jesuits reconstructed Svatá Hora in 1673, transforming it into a Baroque complex of smaller churches and chapels completed. In 1732, the Virgin Mary of Svatá Hora was consecrated. Modern visitors to the mountain will find an impressive collection of art, sculptures, and paintings, including a magnificent silver shrine in the basilica, recognized as a “Basilica Minor” a distinction awarded to the world’s most important churches by the Pope.

A Call to Sponsorship: St. Barbara’s Church St. Barbara’s Church in the middle Bohemian town of Kutná Hora is one of the most important Gothic structures in Europe and a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site. Construction of this unique, five-naved church with stunning flying-buttressed choir, was begun in 1388 but not completed until 1905 due to ongoing war and the fluctuating prosperity of the nearby silver mines throughout the region’s storied history—St. Barbara is the patron saint of miners. Preservation of important interior pieces such as medieval frescoes, has taken place throughout the years and now your help is needed to repair sections of the exterior, the northern side of the church, and entire western front. Donations can be made on behalf of the Roman Catholic parish of the Kutna Hora Archdiocese, account number 441774319/0800 vs 1388. Your patronage and financial support is greatly appreciated. Explore Middle BohemiaKeep these hints and highlights in mind as you plan your outing. Search www.kudyznudy.cz, the Czech Tourist Authority’s “Escape from Boredom” on-line initiative, for more to see and do in mid-Bohemia.
Stránov ChateauThis fairy-tale chateau in the charming municipality of Jizerní Vtelno near Mlada Boleslav dates back to 1463, but was rebuilt in the Neo-Renaissance style in the 17th century. The tower offers magnificent views of the Bohemian Paradise surrounds while wings showcasing various oddities (period furniture, motorbike and butterfly collections) give it wide-ranging appeal. www.zamekstranov.cz Dvořák in Nelahozeves
Located on the left bank of the Vltava River, about 25 kilometers north of Prague, lies the tiny village of Nelahozeves, birthplace of Czech composer Antonín Dvořák (1841-1904). The Prague branch of the Dvořák Museum holds an exhibition devoted to the virtuoso’s childhood and youth in the very house where he was born, piecing together a life of staggering importance. www.nm.cz Loučeň Labyrinth
Unprecedented in the Czech lands or even Europe for that matter, the Labyrintárium Loučeň is a unique complex of ten labyrinths and mazes beneath a canopy of exotic trees, designed for Loučeň Castle by Adrian Fischer, the world famous creator of more than 500 labyrinths around the globe. The elegant Baroque chateau, dating back to the 13th century, is also worth a visit. www.zamekloucen.cz Mělník Chateau and Wine CellarThe rivers Elbe and Vltava converge in Mělník as does age-old Czech lore and the production of wine in this fertile region. Known as the “residence of queen widows” since the 10th century, this lovingly restored Renaissance chateau features a panoramic restaurant and wine bar and offers tours of the Lobkowicz family cellars where their signature Ludmilla wines, named after the princess who brought vines to Mělník, can be sampled.
www.lobkowicz-melnik.cz Solvay’s Rock MuseumSkanzen Solvay’s Quarry near Beroun, an open-museum devoted to the history of mining, hosts its annual closing ceremony this year on October 31 (the quarry will re-open again in the spring). Vintages cars, engines, and other mechanical relics will be on display during this festive event. Old-timey clothes are encouraged! www.solvayovylomy.cz www.czechtourism.com, www.kudyznudy.cz, www.133premier.cz