The south-west of Bohemia couldn’t be further from the madding ski crowds and the interminable queues of the northern mountains. Even the pistes of nearby Sumava appear light years away in the
mind’s eye.

As winter fires its last salvoes of arctic chill across the land, the quiet and understated region of Klatovsko remains a neglected, but perfect antidote to the concentration of holiday-makers up north.

Subdued and dotted with bucolic villages and traditional U-shaped farmsteads with their inner courtyards hidden behind
high vaulted gateways, the roads remain gratifyingly quiet while the landscape echoes to the roll call of medieval Bohemian history. Many of the Czech Republic’s best preserved examples of feudal castles are located here in testimony to the once vibrant commercial life and martial conflict of the region.

The town of Klatovy, the Gateway to Šumava, is the ideal base for exploring the area. And enough of the Gothic and Baroque historical core of the town remains to keep you sauntering the streets for a day. Emerging in the second half of the 12th century, the town’s name derives from ‘klát’ – an old word for ‘tree stump’, denoting the amount of forest clearance that took place to create new settlements on the developing trade route between Old Plzeň and Bavaria.

Klatovy became one of the most important and wealthiest Bohemian towns around the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries on the back of its trade with the Bavarians, its town market and its commercial fish ponds. That’s when many of the Gothic monuments that you see today were built.

Like most of South West Bohemia, the town denizens placed their bets correctly during the Hussite reformation. Its citizens were among those who marched on Prague in 1419 to prevent the enthronement of Zigmund Luxembourg as Czech king and participate in the first defenestration of the city burghers from the town hall.

Not surprisingly, two centuries later the town was on the wrong and inventory remain perfectly preserved with all its various vessels for the collection of elaborate tinctures and unguents. Close your eyes and you can imagine potions of ground walrus pizzle and creams distilled from boiled auroch bladder being dispensed to the townsfolk. Entrance by prior arrangement with the museum only though.

The moated castle of Švihov

Located only 10km north of Klatovy, Castle Švihov can be seen from a distance standing proud and majestic, and aware of its uniqueness as Gothic fortress architecture at its apotheosis.

It lies in the middle of a flat landscape, for it relied not on natural physical obstacles for protection but on an intricate system of moats. It is allegedly the last of its type of water castle. During its 16th century reconstruction its noblemen were inspired by every latest breakthrough in technology. The castle is therefore a mixture of Gothic and elements of genuine Renaissance, and it is the largest and best preserved water castle in the Czech Republic. It was repeatedly remodelled and decorated by its owners and is therefore often spoken of today as the last real castle in the Bohemian lands; only chateaux were built subsequently.

The first large water castle and adjacent town were built here in the 14th century. The owner at that time envisaged creating a commercial town to rival Klatovy. However, he joined the forces of Emperor Zigmund against the Klatovy Hussites and the castle was stormed and razed by a combined Hussite force in 1424.

Its owners eventually returned and under Půta Švihovský the castle underwent a major rebuild and expansion. This was when the castle became perfectly protected via an ingenious moat system side of history when it joined the uprising of the Bohemian Estates against the Holy Roman Emperor. After the Bohemian nobility had been vanquished at the Battle of White Mountain in 1620, Klatovy was occupied by the Emperor’s forces and lost all its property. The Counter-Reformation then began in earnest and the town underwent forced re-Catholicisation.

The town suffered substantial damage from allied bombing near the end of the Second World War, but was eventually part of the area liberated by American and British forces rather than the Red Army. Fortunately, the main square, Náměsti míru, remained undamaged and is preserved according to its original checkerboard layout. So, what are the town highlights? Start with the 16th century 81m Black Tower that dominates the main square. It was built to keep a look out over the town precincts and to raise the alarm at the approach of enemy soldiers and signs of the conflagrations that intermittently engulfed the town. From April onwards you can climb the 226 steps to the top for terrific views in the summer. On a good day you can clearly see Šumava and the tops of the Bavarian Alps.

Attached to the tower is the town hall, also built in the 16th century, although it’s been remodelled continuously over the years. The current Nouveau Renaissance look dates back only as far as 1925, but the ornate decoration is well worth a close examination. The original first floor courtroom once provided easy access to the obligatory torture chamber in the Black Tower to ensure the ‘truth’ was outed in tricky legal cases.

The Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary and St Ignatius is the most important surviving Baroque monument constructed after the arrival of the Jesuits in the latter half of the 17th century. A Jesuit dormitory was built next door to act as a centre of learning to ensure the local inhabitants were properly schooled in the prevailing religious orthodoxy.

If you see nothing else, make sure you at least catch a glimpse of The White Unicorn pharmacy. Open from 1776 until 1966, the name comes from the white horn of a sea narwhal which hangs above the entrance, and which was considered in medieval times to be the horn of an actual unicorn. The original baroque interior and inventory remain perfectly preserved with all its various vessels for the collection of elaborate tinctures and unguents. Close your eyes and you can imagine potions of ground walrus pizzle and creams distilled from boiled auroch bladder being dispensed to
the townsfolk. Entrance by prior arrangement with the museum only though.
The moated castle of Švihov
Located only 10km north of Klatovy, Castle Švihov can be seen from a distance standing proud and majestic, and aware of its uniqueness as Gothic fortress architecture at its apotheosis.
It lies in the middle of a flat landscape, for it relied not on natural physical obstacles for protection but on an intricate system of moats. It is allegedly the last of its type of water castle. During its 16th century reconstruction its noblemen were inspired by every latest breakthrough in technology. The castle is therefore a mixture of Gothic and elements of genuine Renaissance, and it is the largest and best preserved water castle in the Czech Republic. It was repeatedly remodelled and decorated by its owners and is therefore often spoken of today as the last real castle in the Bohemian lands; only chateaux were built subsequently.
The first large water castle and adjacent town were built here in the 14th century. The owner at that time envisaged creating a commercial town to rival Klatovy. However, he joined the forces of Emperor Zigmund against the Klatovy Hussites and the castle was stormed and razed by a combined Hussite force in 1424.
Its owners eventually returned and under Půta Švihovský the castle underwent a major rebuild and expansion. This was when the castle became perfectly protected via an ingenious moat system side of history when it joined the uprising of the Bohemian Estates against the Holy Roman Emperor. After the Bohemian nobility had been vanquished at the Battle of White Mountain in 1620, Klatovy was occupied by the Emperor’s forces and lost all its property. The Counter-Reformation then began in earnest and the town underwent forced re-Catholicisation. The town suffered substantial damage from allied bombing near the end of the Second World War, but was eventually part of the area liberated by American and British forces rather than the Red Army. Fortunately, the main square, Náměsti míru, remained undamaged and is preserved according to its original checkerboard layout.

So, what are the town highlights? Start with the 16th century 81m Black Tower that dominates the main square. It was built to keep a look out over the town precincts and to raise the alarm at the approach of enemy soldiers and signs of the conflagrations that intermittently engulfed the town. From April onwards you can climb the 226 steps to the top for terrific views in the summer. On a good day you can clearly see Šumava and the tops of the Bavarian Alps.

Attached to the tower is the town hall, also built in the 16th century, although it’s been remodelled continuously over the years. The current Nouveau Renaissance look dates back only as far as 1925, but the ornate decoration is well worth a close examination. The original first floor courtroom once provided easy access to the obligatory torture chamber in the Black Tower to ensure the ‘truth’ was outed in tricky legal cases.

The Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary and St Ignatius is the most important surviving Baroque monument constructed after the arrival of the Jesuits in the latter half of the 17th century. A Jesuit dormitory was built next door to act as a centre of learning to ensure the local inhabitants were properly schooled in the prevailing religious orthodoxy.

If you see nothing else, make sure you at least catch a glimpse of The White Unicorn pharmacy. Open from 1776 until 1966, the name comes from the white horn of a sea narwhal which hangs above the entrance, and which was considered in medieval times to be the horn of an actual unicorn. The original baroque interior that allowed the flooding of the surrounding fields and internal courtyard at times of imminent danger, and then let the water drain out again without the castle suffering damage. Much of this moat system can still be seen today.

Švihov suffered further damage during the Thirty Years War. After the war, Emperor Ferdinand III wanted to have the castle demolished to ensure it never became a base of enemy resistance, but its new owner managed to prevent the order being carried out. In later years it fell into disrepair and was used to store wheat, which, ironically, helped to keep it relatively well-preserved. These days you can also see a magnificently re-constructed medieval scullery inside the castle as well.

And Švihov is not without its legends as well. Půta Švihovský may have been a visionary builder, but his other personal characteristics appear to have been less praiseworthy. Půta was so cruel to his servants, serfs and workmen that he was condemned to wander the castle grounds for eternity engulfed in the fires of Hell. One story says that one day he invited everyone who had worked on the castle – stonemasons, carpenters, brick-layers – for a meal in a wooden barn. At the moment all the artisans were inside Půta had the barn closed, set it alight and incinerated all of them in one go. He thus avoided his obligations to pay his workers, but he soon got his comeuppance when the devil himself came to nab Puta and carry him off to Hell.

It is said that the ghost of his wife also wanders the castle grounds attempting to dismantle it stone by stone after learning from the devil that the only way to save her husband’s soul was to return all the building materials to their original source. So, if you feel a hot breath down the back of your neck while touring the castle, it’s just the local lord and lady of the manor on their daily rounds.

Getting there, accommodation & getting around
Klatovsko is within relatively easy striking distance of Prague and just a short drive or train trip from Plzeň. It’s 130km from the centre of the capital, or approximately 1hr50m. Take the D5 west, then turn off on exit 81 as you pass Plzeň and continue all the way to Klatovy on the E53. If you want to load up with bicycles, a direct fast train to Klatovy from Prague will take you 2hr40m. A fast train from Plzeň will take 50 minutes.
For accommodation, try the Wellness Hotel Centrál in Klatovy (http://www.centralkt.cz) with its newly opened Wellness Centre, or the very centrally located Penzion u Hejtmana (http://uhejtmana.klatovynet.cz). Further out of town, but close to Velhartice is the luxury Apartmány Braníčkov (http://www.branickov.cz), complete with fitness centre, infrasauna, whirlpool, indoor swimming pool and Finnish sauna.
If you’re up for a pleasant bike ride to our castles or even a more testing post-op work-out for that gammy knee, then there are plenty of cycling and hiking routes hereabouts. It’s an approximate 28km round-trip from Klatovy to Švihov and back if you follow the red markings to Švihov (or take the train) and then return via Kamýcká skála – Vosí – Vícenická hůrka – Točník following the blue markings.
The round trip from Klatovy to Velhartice is about 50km by bike if you follow the 332 cycle trail via Luby – Vrhaveč – Radinovy – Hubenov – Běšiny – Nemilkov – Velhartice and back again. If that’s too far for you, there are plenty of small train stations along the way where you get on and off with or without your bike to shorten the distance.

Velhartice’s stone bridge

Many of South West Bohemia’s castles have unique distinguishing features, and Velhartice is no exception. Unlike Švihov, the castle is not immediately apparent as you arrive in the village of the same name. Once you arrive at the castle walls though, you immediately appreciate the aesthetic and defensive qualities of the site.

Sited upon and built into a sharp rock promontory , Velhartice relied more upon the difficult and exposed approaches to its walls
Czech Travelfor its protection from hostile forces. And its additional defensive feature is what marks it out from contemporaneous buildings: a large arched stone bridge connecting its palace with its defensive tower. This structure enabled a relatively sophisticated and progressive defense of the castle against invaders; it allowed its defenders to stage ordered withdrawals to other parts of the fortress when overwhelmed in another. No other castle in the Czech Republic boasts such an edifice. It also makes Velhartice one of the more interesting photogenic subjects of its kind in the country.

Built around the turn of the 13th and 14th centuries, Velhartice was once used to hide the crown jewels during the war against Jiří of Poděbrady. After the battle of White Mountain and the Thirty Years’ War the castle fell into the hands of one of the Holy Roman Emperor’s henchmen, Martin de Hoeff Huerto. As a zealous Catholic,

Huerto energetically reintroduced the locals to the re-established state religion by the sword. On the other hand, he also abolished the corvée (compulsory unpaid labour) for the local inhabitants, so he perhaps wasn’t all bad.

Huerto remodelled the castle and built a late Renaissance palace painted white with arcades, which appears somewhat out of keeping with the rest of the castle when viewed from the south-west side. If you can get at least halfway up the hill on the other side of the Ostružná River, however, then you’ll be rewarded with superlative views of the entire castle.

The area west of Prague is often considered the true heart of Bohemia—a label that makes sense given it sheer volume of ancient settlements, historical centers characterized at once by fine churches and imposing burgher homes, and the well-preserved remains of castles, chateaux, and fortresses.
A good starting point for a day trip is charming Kutná Hora, a mere 70 kilometers east of Prague. While guidebooks primarily tout the village’s chilling bone church and the majestic St. Barbara’s Church as must-sees, Kutná Hora’s Museum of Silver offers an adventure not to be missed. Most of the shafts here were flooded in the 17th century, marking the demise of the silver mining era; Kutná Hora’s silver riches gave Prague’s grandeur a run for its money. A terrace of St. Barbara’s church was even designed to resemble Charles Bridge, so much so that a photo caption in a British newspaper once misidentified it as the Prague landmark.

For those more daring adventurers, Koněprusy Cave, located just five kilometers south of Beroun, descend as far as 70 meters into the stalactite caves. During the 15th century, forgers ran an illegal minting operation in the cave, bypassing Kutná Hora’s royal monopoly. Part of the original mint workshop is still intact. Koněprusy’s underground labyrinth is located amidsts the Bohemian Karst Nature Reserve, 15 kilometers southwest of Prague. It features beautiful canyons, limestone caves, and vast stretches of forest and meadows.

Another popular hiking destination in the area is Svatý Jan pod Skalou, or “St John under the Cliff,” just a 40-minute bus ride from Prague’s Zličín station. Ascend the cliff using the makeshift stairs carved into the rocks, then take a break at Obecná Škola—not the village’s elementary school as the name suggests, but a local restaurant, serving up some fine Czech cuisine and beer on tap.

A monastery with an illustrious history stands in the shadow of the imposing 159-meter-high cliff. At the turn of the 20th century, it served as a spa before the Germans turned it into a forced labor camp in 1949 and, later, a jail. The communist secret police, who must have liked the secluded location, even trained agents here. Today, the building houses a teacher-training.

Pop over to the church of St. John the Baptist next door to see the cave where Ivan, son of a duke, lived as a hermit for 42 years during the 9th century. According to local legend, Ivan was tempted by demons to leave the cave, but St. John the Baptist one day appeared and him gave Ivan a wooden crosslet to drive the evil spirits away. The church’s main altar depicts this scene. Above the altar hangs a cross that originally stood on the Charles Bridge. Pilgrims from Prague’s Old Town donated it to the church. Before you leave fortify with mineral water from the saint’s hot spring.

Romantics might want to visit the Baroque-style chateau in Mnichovo Hradiště on the outskirts of the Bohemian Paradise region. It houses the Wallenstein Library was once tended by the world-famous womanizer Casanova who oversaw its 20,000 books, alchemy, and herb collections during the waning years of his life. To relieve his boredom, he wrote his 12-volume memoirs under the pseudonym Chevalier de Seingalt from 1785 until his death in 1798. NPR commentator and essayist Andrei Codrescu’s novel Casanova in Bohemia is a must-read for those planning a journey here.

Take a moment to reflect at the neighboring Capuchin Monastery, where Albrecht von Wallenstein is buried in St. Anna’s chapel. The famous general, immortalized by German playwright Schiller, fought on the side of Holy Roman Emperor Friedrich II during the devastating Thirty Years’ War. Accused of treason, he was later assassinated on the emperor’s behalf in Cheb, a town in western Bohemia.

Art lovers will want to visit Château Třebešice, just five kilometers from Kutná Hora. The chateau’s summer residency program is a magnet for those in the visual and performing art community. Another site of artistic inspiration is the Dobříš chateau, located 35 kilometers from Prague. During communist times, many writers retreated to the chateau, then owned by the Czech Writers’ Club.

In 1998, Dobříš was returned to the descendants of its original owners, the Colloredo-Mannsfeld family. Changed to rococo style the 18th century, the chateau has three wings and boasts terraced French and English gardens, complete with sculptures and a large waterfall. The setting is reminiscent of Vienna’s Schönnbrunn Palace. Visitors can peek into 11 neo-classical and rococo rooms during a tour of the chateau. And if chateaus aren’t really your cup of tea, there is an excellent exhibition of historical motorcycles at Zámek Dobříš.

Pilgrimage to Příbram

The 343 stairs rising up from the town of middle Bohemia town of Příbram lead to Svatá Hora (“Holy Mountain”) the oldest pilgrimage site in the Czech Republic. The chapel on Svatá Hora, originally a simple Renaissance building, dates back to the early 16th century. But the Virgin Mary and Infant sculpture therein, the icon to which upwards of 25,000 pilgrims once paid homage was created by Archbishop Arnošt in the mid-14th century. Jesuits reconstructed Svatá Hora in 1673, transforming it into a Baroque complex of smaller churches and chapels completed. In 1732, the Virgin Mary of Svatá Hora was consecrated. Modern visitors to the mountain will find an impressive collection of art, sculptures, and paintings, including a magnificent silver shrine in the basilica, recognized as a “Basilica Minor” a distinction awarded to the world’s most important churches by the Pope.

A Call to Sponsorship: St. Barbara’s Church St. Barbara’s Church in the middle Bohemian town of Kutná Hora is one of the most important Gothic structures in Europe and a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site. Construction of this unique, five-naved church with stunning flying-buttressed choir, was begun in 1388 but not completed until 1905 due to ongoing war and the fluctuating prosperity of the nearby silver mines throughout the region’s storied history—St. Barbara is the patron saint of miners. Preservation of important interior pieces such as medieval frescoes, has taken place throughout the years and now your help is needed to repair sections of the exterior, the northern side of the church, and entire western front. Donations can be made on behalf of the Roman Catholic parish of the Kutna Hora Archdiocese, account number 441774319/0800 vs 1388. Your patronage and financial support is greatly appreciated. Explore Middle BohemiaKeep these hints and highlights in mind as you plan your outing. Search www.kudyznudy.cz, the Czech Tourist Authority’s “Escape from Boredom” on-line initiative, for more to see and do in mid-Bohemia.
Stránov ChateauThis fairy-tale chateau in the charming municipality of Jizerní Vtelno near Mlada Boleslav dates back to 1463, but was rebuilt in the Neo-Renaissance style in the 17th century. The tower offers magnificent views of the Bohemian Paradise surrounds while wings showcasing various oddities (period furniture, motorbike and butterfly collections) give it wide-ranging appeal. www.zamekstranov.cz Dvořák in Nelahozeves
Located on the left bank of the Vltava River, about 25 kilometers north of Prague, lies the tiny village of Nelahozeves, birthplace of Czech composer Antonín Dvořák (1841-1904). The Prague branch of the Dvořák Museum holds an exhibition devoted to the virtuoso’s childhood and youth in the very house where he was born, piecing together a life of staggering importance. www.nm.cz Loučeň Labyrinth
Unprecedented in the Czech lands or even Europe for that matter, the Labyrintárium Loučeň is a unique complex of ten labyrinths and mazes beneath a canopy of exotic trees, designed for Loučeň Castle by Adrian Fischer, the world famous creator of more than 500 labyrinths around the globe. The elegant Baroque chateau, dating back to the 13th century, is also worth a visit. www.zamekloucen.cz Mělník Chateau and Wine CellarThe rivers Elbe and Vltava converge in Mělník as does age-old Czech lore and the production of wine in this fertile region. Known as the “residence of queen widows” since the 10th century, this lovingly restored Renaissance chateau features a panoramic restaurant and wine bar and offers tours of the Lobkowicz family cellars where their signature Ludmilla wines, named after the princess who brought vines to Mělník, can be sampled.
www.lobkowicz-melnik.cz Solvay’s Rock MuseumSkanzen Solvay’s Quarry near Beroun, an open-museum devoted to the history of mining, hosts its annual closing ceremony this year on October 31 (the quarry will re-open again in the spring). Vintages cars, engines, and other mechanical relics will be on display during this festive event. Old-timey clothes are encouraged! www.solvayovylomy.cz www.czechtourism.com, www.kudyznudy.cz, www.133premier.cz

Mountainous, forested and dotted with royal residences, the Liberec region leaves little to be desired for adventurous weekenders.
Those who are after an escape from the stresses of city living can’t go wrong in the Liberec region, where relaxation takes on a variety of enticing forms. Picturesque nature, medieval castles and fairy-tale chateaus, adrenalin adventures, spa sessions, culinary delights and other premium services make this area the perfect spot in which to spend one’s hard-earned free time.
The Liberec region lies in the northern part of the Czech Republic, sharing borders with Germany and Poland. Liberec, the capital and bustling city centre of this part of Northern Bohemia is populated by almost 100,000 inhabitants. Despite the fact that it is the second-smallest region in the country (Prague being the first), Liberec does not lack for big leisure-time offerings.
Krkonoše, the Jizerské Mountains, the Lužické Mountains, the Máchův region and Český Paradise spread across Liberec giving the whole district a peculiar individuality which lures those in search of active holidays like hiking, bike hiking, in-line skating, paragliding, or golf.
In fact the golf courses here, framed by the picturesque backdrop of the mountains, are some of the best in the country. British architect Keith Preston designed Ypsilon Golf Resort, comprised of 18 holes spread over forested islands. Ypsilon took first prize in the Best Service category in the “Course of 2008” competition.
Other greens of the Liberec region, Heřmanice, Liberec, Grabštejn, Harrachov and Semily also offer players excellent conditions and remarkable service.
Thrill seekers won’t be bored by in Liberec. Try a “Tarzan” jump, giant swing or bungee spring-board from one of the many funicular centers here. The bravest of all can drink in the region’s stunning vistas from the bird’s eye perspective of tandem jumps or paraglide. Water fun can also be had: windsurfing, catamaran riding or water skiing beckon. Wheeled excitement takes the shape of field scooters and Segways.

Apart from outdoor activities and breath-taking extreme fun, it’s also possible to ascend castle or chateau steps, straight into the world of kings, knights, and ladies in waiting. State’s Castle and Chateau Frýdlant, first owned by Albrecht z Valdštejna, belong to the most majestic monuments of this area. The castle was open to the public for the first time in 1801 and since then has become the first castle museum in middle Europe.
Those, who favor fairy-tale castles, should not miss Sychrov, which surprises with its beautiful woodwork interior, created by Peter Buška, and also the greatest Central European collection of French portrait art in its Rohan Gallery. Visit Bezděz, Trosky, Grabštejn, Houska and other must-see castles to complete the heritage tour.
The Liberec region is an ideal alternative also for corporate meetings or company team-building. Choose from a rich variety of venues and services beneath one roof (from conference centers to wellness spas, Aqua Park, Luna Park or casino).

The first written reference to Liberec dates back to the year 1352. Situated on the Czech-German-Polish borders and surrounded by the Jizera range, its name in all forms derives from the medieval German word for “rich, resourceful mountain”, a moniker that rings true today. Liberec has grown into one of northern Bohemia’s most up-and-coming cities, boasting more than 105,000 residents. The estimated population for the entire Liberec regions reaches approximately 430,000. It may be the smallest district in the Czech lands, after Prague, but what it lacks in acreage it makes up for in natural and cultural treasures.
An easy, 90-kilometer drive from the country’s capital lands you in the heart of a city that, despite its complicated and controversial past continues to rise.
The history of the textile industry in Liberec stretches back more than 500 years, but it wasn’t until the second half of the 1800 sthat the region began to thrive both culturally and economically. The building of stunning turn-of-the-century edifices and the development of textile and machine factories, as well as glass and jewelry workshops, belie this fact. The ostentatious villas and grand buildings, standing in tribute to this golden era, are slowly being renovated after years of neglect at the hands of the communist regime.
Like many cities that lay on the German border, Liberec is haunted by a sad and controversial past. In 1935, the Sudeten German Party won the town elections, followed in 1938 by the annexation of the Sudetenland by Germany. After the Second World War the region was returned to Czechoslovakia and, with hostility towards the German population at an all-time high, its citizens pushed out the Sudeten German population, rendering the city of Liberec anear ghost town. This difficult and relevantly recent past still stirs up emotions at times, even though many steps have been taken to heal old wounds.
Not all is doom and gloom, however; since the communist shackles fell off in 1989, the region has slowly and surely recovered and today Liberec is an emerging, modern city — its sights set firmly on the future-well on its way to rebuilding its former glory.
An injection of capital from foreign investors made wise to the region’s highly skilled and hard-working workforce, particularly in the fields of engineering and production, has aided in the city’s reinvention. A newly invigorated tourism industry has culminated in the renovation and building of numerous tourist facilities over the past 20 years.

Liberec: Travel and Cultural Attractions

If you have any difficulty deciding on your next get-away, due to the differing interest of family members and other travel companions, then the Liberec region, surrounded by the Jizera and Lužice mountains, and the Krkonoše Mountain National Park holds the key to all-around satisfaction. Only about an hour’sdrive from Prague, it offers something for the serious adrenalin junkie, sportsperson, history devotee, architecture buff, culture aficionado, and, with its top-notch zoo, even animal lovers won’t complain. Just about the only thing missing is sand and surf — but the country’s largest, and perhaps weirdest, water park, Babylon, does the job of getting you wet.
The popularity of the annual Turnov Old Bohemian Craft Markets, held the weekend of May 30 through May 31, attracts a festive crowd who come to glimpse firsthand the traditional crafts such of ceramic turning, glass blowing, stone grinding, wood carving, and more. Food stalls, concerts and performances delight adults and children alike.
The awe-inspiring castles and chateaus of the city of Liberec and the surrounding Liberec region hold plenty of wonders for history and architecture enthusiasts. Majestic Bezděz, a sprawling castle complex originally built in the latter part of the 13th century, has inspired many of the country’s famed artists, poet Karel Hynek Mácha and the composer Bedřich Smetana among them.
A stone’s throw from Bezděz, Castle Houska dates from the same period though has only been open to the public since 1999. Both castles are shrouded in mystery and legend. Sychrov, a beautifully restored chateau complete with lush gardens, is a top destination for fairty-tale weddings, concerts and special events.

A plethora of activities will peak the interest of sport fans and thrill-seekers. Skiing, mountain biking, rock climbing, aerial rope courses, hang gliding and paragliding rival tennis, golf, and hiking in their sweat factor. Exhilarating bobsled runs in Janov nad Nisou, Špindlerův Mlýn and Harrachov also excite. And if dangling from trees Tarzan-like sounds like your cup of tea, head to the Monkey Park in Harrachov or the aptly named Gate to Hell Adrenalin Park in Turnov. Ski resorts Špindlerův Mlýn, Harrachov, Janské Lázně and Rokytnice nad Jizerou don’t shutter their doors once the snow melts — the active summer tourist will dowell here.
After a long day of exploration and adventure relax in one of the regions many wellness centers. If you happen to find yourself in Harrachov, soothe your aching muscles and quench your well- won thirst all in one go at the Beer Spa. Soak in abeer bath either individually or with your partner for 20 minutes, followed by another 20 minute relaxation session and an optional massage. During these phases you can also enjoy what’son tap from the microbrewery — aterrific example of multi-tasking and time management!
Onto more animal pleasures: This year the country’s oldest zoo celebrates 90 years in Liberec. It houses over 170 different species on 13 hectares of land and claims the largest chimpanzee population in the country, along with the zoo’spride and joy, the white tiger.

This is but a small taste of what the city of Liberec and the outlying Liberec region can offer visitors. Infused with arich history and stunning beauty at every turn, it is a corner of the country that’smuch worth discovering. Explore another region of the Czech Republic and get to know its country and people alittle bit more in Liberec. Rich, resourceful — indeed.

The Liberec region, with its strong and proud tradition in manufacturing and engineering, has proven an attractive location for local and international companies alike. It’s no coincidence that one of the most internationally respected audit and consulting firms KPMG established an office in the region as early as 1993. Says Liberec mayor, Mr. Jiří Kittner of the city’s historical work ethic: “Liberec has avery strong history, tradition, and know-how in textile production and textile engineering. After the revolution and throughout the 1990 s textiles were replaced by the auto industry. The workforce was well-qualified: great technically skilled engineers andindustrious worker bees on the machines”. A man who is today synonymous with world-class engineering and manufacturing, Ferdinand Porsche, was born in the area and spent his early educational years in Liberec. Porsche may have moved on to greener pastures in Stuttgart, but many other companies have remained or come along to set up shop on Ferdinand’sold stomping grounds.

One successful company that has called Liberec home for decades, and still remains true to its roots, is Jablonex, atraditional manufacturer of glass and jewelry. Having recently merged with a number of companies to create the Jablonex Group a. s., it now totals over 2,500 employees and an annual turnover of over 2 billion CZK. With offices all over the world and luminaries and starlets such as Grace Kelly, Catharine Deneuve and Claudia Cardinale having worn their creations, Jablonex stakes arightful claim as one of Czech manufacturing’strue gems.

TRW, one of the world’s largest independent automotive parts manufacturers, with global sales exceeding 10 billion USD and employees numbering in excess of 65,000, also conducts its plant operations out of Liberec. Located in Frýdlant v Čechách, the factory     outputs numerous products including brake discs at an annual capacity of 2.5 million units. They also remanufacture some 500 different types of brake calipers, passenger vehicles, buses and trucks. Yet another TRW focus is the re- manufacturing of steering gears and hydraulic racks. Their major clients include Volvo, Opel, Ford, GM and Mitsubishi.
Not all industry in the Liberec region is manufacturing-based. One of the country’s most prestigious architectural firms operates from Liberec. SIAL is behind some of the most renowned structures in the country. Formed in 1968 by Karel Hubáček as an independent studio, it was nationalized in 1971, but despite restrictions imposed by the communist regime, still managed to lay out interesting and iconic structures. Some of the most famous projects of this era include Liberec’s Ještěd Tower, Máj (now TESCO) on Prague’s Národní třída, and the awe-inspiring and high-altitude ramps for the 1983 Ski Flying Championships in Harrachov, a project that gives both athletes and spectators butterflies to this day.
After the fall of communism in 1989, SIAL regained its independence from the state in 1991. Since casting off those chains, the company has grown from strong to stronger, designing some of the country’s most well-known and visited sites. Spend even a limited amount of time in the Czech Republic and you’re likely to come across a SIAL design. Mall par excellence, Palladium Shopping Centre on Náměstí Republiky in Prague and a large part of the Špindlerův Mlýn ski resort, including the main ski lifts, ski runs and public facilities there — all count among SIAL handiwork. The firm counts pavilion designs at Expos in Seville, Aichi and Shanghai among its professional accomplishments.

We approached Mr. Jiří Špikla, co-owner of SIAL, to discuss the company’s ongoing success and to share his thoughts on the Liberec region at large, where his company has remained fruitful since inception many years ago.

Does SIAL build only in the Liberec district or do you have projects going elsewhere?
SIAL builds not only in the Liberec district and the Czech Republic in general, but also in Slovakia, Hungary and Germany. Previously, through our export program with TESLA, we completed projects in Poland. We’ve also worked on the EXPO exhibitions in Seville, Aichi and now currently in Shanghai.

Has it been difficult basing your company in Liberec rather than in Prague?
Of course, being based in Prague has its advantages, and we do have an intermediate office there. The distance between the two cities is not so great as to present an obstacle; after all it’sonly about a50-minute drive. Our Czech and foreign investors both take the time to find us.

What are some advantages and disadvantages of being based in Liberec?
Advantages are the beautiful surroundings and our location on the border of both amidsize and alarge city. It’s also areally nice place in which to live with great public facilities and schools, including the Technical University, good health services and many excellent recreational and sporting options. We really cannot see any disadvantages.

Your projects reflect great diversity: you design houses, shopping centers, ski resorts etc. Is there something you’d like to do, but haven’t had the chance to yet?
Universality, in our case, has helped us to survive. Our projects have included designing banks, industrial and logistical centers, shopping centers and sports centers. In the past houses have been more of an exception then the norm, though investor interest these days is turning towards various forms of formal residences.

How do you see Liberec and the Liberec region evolving?
The Liberec region is interestingly situated on the border of three countries, (Poland, the Czech Republic, Germany). Unfortunately the road network between them has not been successfully resolved. Also the local transport network still has its drawbacks as well, especially the connection between Liberec and the Hradec Králové region. The city itself has problems similar to those of other cities of its size, problems with hasty privatizations and often impetuous sales of city properties and land, and the fast expansion and icreasing traffic.
Another problem is the frantic construction of shopping centres that don’t attract customers including centers right in the middle of the city. On the other hand there are many positives to be seen, fortunately due to privatization the condition of many properties, façades, transport lines and sporting facilities has greatly improved.

What is your company proudest achievement?
SIAL can be proud of its past and present in completely different social conditions. Definitely the most important project was the Ještěd TV tower and hotel, but the company can also be proud of the department store Ještěd vLiberci (later TESCO), which was recently demolished and also Máj in Prague (now TESCO on Národní třída).
It can also be proud of a string of other projects such as the reconstruction of the Trade Fair Palace (Veletržní palác) in Prague for use by the National Gallery, and recently an interesting project, the research library in Liberec. Also multifunctional Park One in Bratislava, Slovakia and a number of other industrial and sporting projects.

May’s Night of Literature belonged to the fanfare surrounding the country’s ascendancy to European Union leadership, a six-month initiative toward a “Europe without Barriers” — a theme that came wonderfully alive at this third annual series of readings in Prague. The event, put together by the Czech Centres, an organization that promotes Czech culture abroad, took the shape of a five-hour literary marathon celebrating contemporary writers from across the continent.
Book excerpts were read by well-known stars of Czech theater, television and music at twelve venues throughout the city, some traditional (The Maisel Synagogue, The Municipal Library) and others just plain unusual (a high-street shoe store, the police station). These performances gave book lovers the chance to mingle with Czech actors in settings both casual and historical.
The evening’s choice voices — velvet-throated Taťjana Medvecká and young Czech “it”actor Jíří Mádl — appealed to a wide demographic, and drew an audience of vastly differing age groups and nationalities, proof positive of literature’s amazing power as great leveling factor and unifier of cultural divides.

The evening showcased not only the best in European literature but also allowed attendees into Prague’s hidden architectural gems, many of them usually closed to the public. Clam-Gallas Palais, currently the seat of the Town Archive of Prague, and one of the city’s most prominent examples of Viennese Baroque played host to a reading by actor Ivan Řezáč. The Maisel Synagogue, erected between 1590 and 1592 by then mayor of the Jewish Town Moderchai Maisel, added poignancy to Norman Manea’s memoir The Hooligan’s Return. Manea, a Romanian intellectual of Jewish origin, was deported from fascist Romania in 1941 at the tender age of five.
The Prague 1 Metropolitan Police Station may seem an unconventional choice for a reading, but lent a whole new dimension to Austrian author Martin Prinz’s acclaimed debut novel The Robber. Czech actor Alois Švehlík voiced I’ll Steal You Away, a coming-of-age novel by the Italian author Niccolo Ammaniti, in the beautifully restored Trauttmandorf Palace in Mariánské Square to an audience of hundreds, making it one of the evening’s most popular readings. Spectators also packed into the tiny Rotunda of the Holy Cross, the oldest Roman rotunda in Prague, to hear actress and National Theatre treasure Taťjana Medvecká, interpret the work of José Luis Peixoto.
The beautiful surroundings and familiar faces constituted just half of the evening’s appeal. The pleasure of being read to transported many audience members back to the golden days of their youth-times of being read to by a loved one or listening to adaptations of literature on the radio. For many it conjured up memories of story-time security and comfort. One man in his forties recalled, “This is how I remember many of my Sunday afternoons.”
The event literally spilled across borders into other European cities as well. Berlin was just one of many capitals throughout Europe to hold its own Night of Literature. The readings here, taking place in the attic of the Czech Centre, attracted literature lovers to a reading from Shade Cathedral by Miloš Urban. The format of the London event encouraged audience participation as more of an open discussion about the future of European literature and the importance of translation and multilingualism. The Czech Centre in Paris added post-reading lectures to its literary agenda. This evening turned into a salon of sorts in the grand literary tradition of Getrude Stein, with vivid discussions fueled by coffee, tea and Czech beer. Bratislava, Stockholm, Moscow, Warsaw, Vienna, Dresden, Košice, Munich and Sofia — all hosted an evening of readings from European books, with a general emphasis on Czech writers.
In our fast-paced, digitally enhanced society, quiet time with a good book is a rare thing. Perhaps this is one of many reasons the Night of Literature remains such a tremendous success. The evening certainly carried out the Czech Centre’s mission of promoting culture in a way that’s accessible and human. Sometimes it pays to do things by the book.

What next for the Prague International Jazz Festival?

Can a classic form satisfy the hip-hop generation?

True to tradition, jazz marked the end of autumn in Prague, with one of the oldest European jazz festivals held this year from Nov 24 to Dec 5. The Prague International Jazz Festival (Mezinárodní jazzovýfestival Praha) is celebrating its 32nd anniversary year, and visitors enjoyed an eclectic collection of music by jazz musicians from many

Iron Curtain” jazz festivals in the 1960s required a certain amount of pomp and decorum … not to mention suits and ties.

The Iron Curtain paradox

Alenka in Love. Three Fatties. The Flying Babies. If you think these are merely the names of the latest pop rock groups, you’re missing out on one of the most magical aspects of traditional Czech culture: puppet shows.

During the warm months you can find the wobbly, tall, and surprisingly small traditional puppet theatres – not much larger than a card table – set up on the bumpy grass at country fairs or on the jagged cobblestones in castle courtyards. In winter, the art form heads into the warmth of standard auditoriums in theatre buildings devoted strictly to puppetry. In many Czech homes, whole families (yes, including the grownups) get down on hands and knees and “play” the family’s puppet theatre together, crawling around the wooden or heavy cardboard theatre sets. Even the most august fathers have been observed animating the puppets – often, those handed down from at least grandma and grandpa’s generation – and even squeaking the beloved traditional lines in the falsetto of
the fairy princess.

Right: Scene from “The Flying Babies”

“Mechanical figures” were recorded in the Czech lands as early as 1563, and by the end of the 16th century, Czech audiences enjoyed shows that used marionettes. The first Czech puppet play was written in 1782, and around 1810 a favorite Czech puppet character, Kašpárek, made his first debut. And the tradition has continued ever since.

However, in the Iron Curtain days of the 1960s a newgeneration of Czech puppeteers began a movement, “Theatre of the Third Kind,” which tried to break traditional puppet
theatre out of its familiar box. Bored with puppets manipulated by unseen human gods, this quietly rebellious group came out from behind the curtain to act and sing center stage, right along with the puppets, all of them interacting as the characters in the play.

This September, one of the best-known “Third Kind” puppet theatres, Drak (derived from “dragon”), will celebrate its 50th anniversary. The award-winning Hradec Králové based
threatre company tours all over the Czech Republic, and indeed, the world. “Drak combines original puppets, and drama, along with creative, musical, and movement theatres,” explains director Jana Dražd’áková. “Although Drak has a reputation as a ‘children’s theatre,’ this term is not precise enough. Thanks to our principal director, Josef Kroft, his son, director Jakub Kroft, and composer/actor Jiří Výšohlíd, our theatre has been eliminating age boundaries for a long time. Children get their story and theatre magic, adults get the gags and the humor.”

Left: From the “African Tale”

She says the appeal can best be seen when teenagers come to a performance. “Most of them find themselves in a theatre for the first time – and ten minutes into the performance the cell phones stop blinking and they follow the actors and the story.”

Puppet theatre is a challenging profession. In addition to the usual financial and other stresses common to the performing arts, “Puppet theatre is a ‘fiddly’ job – hard handwork,” says Drak actor Václav Poul. “During one hour we have to say everything.”

You can get a sense of just how creative a typical Drak production is just by reading a plot synopsis [see box on next page]. But the theatre is pushing beyond the bounds of entertainment and again is breaking out of the box, with its “Jump Out of Childhood” project, which speaks openly and in straightforward language to talk to teenagers about
serious topics, according to the Drak director. The company’s “Alenka in Love,” a street romance, uses hip-hop and rock music; a “train station” version of the Bizet opera “Carmen”is entitled “Carmen 20:07”; and the hugely popular “Secret Diary of Adrian Mole” features Abba music – and has already had 120 runs.

In this old art form, the delicate, subtle, yet deep-rooted Czech creativity lives and thrives, still awaiting discovery by a louder audience – and proving that entertainment does not always require headphones.

The Drak Theatre is traditionally on vacation during August and September, but performances start again in Hradec Kralové in October, every Saturday at 3 pm.

The story of “The Flying Babies”
(Premiered 2002)
A balloon is rising up into the air, we are holding on to it by a string and all of a sudden it is gone. It keeps floating up, slowly getting smaller until it completely disappears in the sky. What can you do? Tears don’t help. The heroes of our story are in a similar situation. Instead of moaning and wailing, however, they undertake an adventurous journey to the Planet of Lost Balloons. The age-old dream of flying comes true.

There was a time, not so very long ago, when people walked from place to place. Hard as it is to imagine, a 15-kilometer jaunt to the nearest market town was not uncommon. Coaches, carts, and even horses were hard to come by, and a world where using feet as recreation rather than out of necessity was unimaginable.

But the village of Sopotnice has decided to revive the walking tradition with its annual Three Castle Walk. Every year in May, thousands of people converge on the small village in the foothills of the Orlice Mountains to walk or bike 15, 30, or 50 kilometer routes to three of the most ancient and interesting castles in the region. But you can take your own Three Castle Walk any day of the year.

Although Sopotnice is the traditional starting point of this walk, it’s just as practical to start in Potštejn, which, frankly, has more to offer the traveler, including two good restaurants, a sweets shop, and two clean and reasonably priced hotels.

Potštejn

The Robber Knight Mikuláš z Potštejna lived in a magnificent castle on a hill above a bend in the Orlice River. He and his father were avid opponents of the parvenu, King John of Luxembourg. But somehow Mikuláš managed to get into the good graces of the king’s son, the Moravian Margrave Charles. That stood him in good stead when Mikuláš killed a merchant from the silver-mining town of Kutná Hora.

Under ordinary circumstances, a noble could expect to get away with a stiff fine for killing a merchant. Unfortunately for Mikuláš, his victim belonged to the class of rich silver merchants whom King John liked to fleece on his rare visits to his kingdom. Thanks to the intercession of the young Margrave Charles, Mikuláš got out of his mess with his head sitting on his neck. But King John recouped his losses by confiscating Mikuláš’s property. This irked the knight. He tore up the eviction papers, moved back into the old homestead, and decided to go into business for himself.

Back then, there were only two ways for landless knights to make good: robbery in times of war and robbery in times ofpeace. Mikuláš chose the latter option and did quite well for several years, lightening the loads of trade caravans en route to Poland.

Eventually, word got back to his royal friend, now King Charles. Irked that his good will was being abused so callously, in 1339 he took up residence in the priory of the nearby village of Sopotnice and besieged the fortress. It took nine months of hard work, mainly because Mikuláš refused to give up.

In the end, Charles, who had spent several years besieging in Italy and was up to date on the latest techniques, had a tunnel dug right up to the battlements and blew up the entire castle.

He never managed to bring Mikuláš to justice, however; the knight is said to have died in the ruins. A few years later, Charles, perhaps recalling that there had been two sides to the Potštejn story, returned much of the property he had confiscated to Mikuláš’s widow and, in 1355, rebuilt the castle to be even grander than it was before.

Of Mikuláš of Potštejn, all that is left is the epithet of “Robber Knight” and the family crest, a bull’s head with a ring through its nose, found on the castle gate and in various places around the town of Potštejn; and legends of a buried treasure, which was why the castle was taken apart, stone by stone, by the Count Hasdrubal de Chamaré, an inveterate gambler.

Today it stands, a magnificent ruin, on an escarpment in a bend of the Orlice River. The charming tiny spa town of Potštejn, unviolated by modern socialist architecture, is a maze of tiny wooden cabins huddled along the hillside, around a 17th century well, watched over by a Baroque St. Florian, the patron saint of firemen; and the ubiquitous bull’s head.

You can reach the town from Sopotnice by following the river downstream, crossing the main road and following the purple bike path around the back of the hill around the Vochtánka summer camp, complete with teepees, a bar, country western music on most summer nights, and even, on rodeo nights, a mechanical bull. Yes, rodeo. The foothills of the Orlice Mountains are full of horse farms – and most of the owners are cowboys at heart.

Stay on the main path, flanked on the right by the burbling Orlice and on the left by an ancient millrace. Eventually it turns into a magnificent alley of ancient sycamores and linden trees that will bring you into the center of Potštejn.

You can fortify yourself in either of two restaurants at the crossroad. The chic Hotel Praha has a large, sycamore shaded garden and the remnants of an old wooden promenade, sadly in need of restoration. The more proletarian Slavie serves a garlic soup bound to bring tears to your eyes.

Once you have had your fill of Potštejn, head up the main road back in the direction of Sopotnice, but take a left, following the red marker, toward the tiny village of Brná. Walk back to the Orlice River and then head upstream, through another magnificent valley, this time flanked by ancient fir trees, until you come to the village of Litice.

Litice

This tiny village of no more than 150 inhabitants – all ofwhom seem to be in a friendly “prettiest garden” contest – nestles in the bosom of the fir-covered hills like a corsage. It’s a steep 15-minute hike up to the dramatic castle, which is not much more than a drawbridge and four walls, topped with a handsome new split-shingle roof.

A better time investment is the pub at its foot, which serves Pilsner on tap and pickled cheese worth every step of the walk from Potštejn. The shaggy dog who patrols the quiet street and gravely sniffs newcomers is named Míša.

The town’s hydroelectric plant is over 100 years old, fed by an old channel that runs straight through the hill that the castle stands on (legend has it that it was dug by Turkish prisoners in order to supply the castle with water – which somehow doesn’t mesh historically, but sounds nice, nonetheless). From the channel, the water falls some 100 feet into the well of the hydroelectric plant, turning a huge turbine and generating electricity. If you are technically inclined, ask one of the villagers, who will find the caretaker, or take you there himself.

Further up the road is a pretty railway station. The decision you make here separates the real walkers from the mere amblers. An hourly train will run the less ambitious walkers back to Sopotnice in 10 minutes (the pub has a train schedule).

Another option is to walk to the southern edge of the village and follow the yellow markers back along the other side of the Orlice River. This path runs higher up the mountainside, through tunnels of greenery, punctuated in summer by large patches of violets, wild strawberries, lilies of-the-valley – and of course mushrooms. A brisk 45-minute walk (without strawberry/mushroom stops) will bring you back to Sopotnice.Those who prefer a challenge will continue on an easy 18-kilometer stroll (if you don’t count the first kilometer – a murderous climb out of the Orlice Valley from Litice) through gently rolling meadows, shady forests, and charming villages to the third castle, Žampach.

Žampach

Above: The charming town of Letohrad offers a visual feast of classic Czech architecture

This was the lair of Mikuláš of Potštejn’s ideological follower, Jan of Smojno, also known as Pancíř. In 1355, thanks to various valiant deeds, he was rewarded with a heavy golden chain by Emperor Charles IV.

Unfortunately for him, Pancíř was not the type to not let this kind of thing go to his head. In addition to wearing the chain night and day to remind all and sundry that he was in the Emperor’s good graces, he took up highway robbery.

This time, the siege did not take nine months. The Emperor pulled up to the castle with an army on a Friday, demanding unconditional surrender, and by Sunday, Pancíř, expecting to receive mercy, did so.

He might actually have been pardoned if he hadn’t worn that gold chain around his neck. In a rare display of black humor, the Emperor hung the robber knight on the nearest tree – by the golden chain.

Nothing but a few stone arches hidden among the trees are left of Žampach today. Still, the magnificent view of the Orlice Mountain range is well worth walking the extra 18
kilometers – if you like walking. At this point, traditional Three-Castle walkers turn their heads toward Sopotnice – a question of a mere 20 more kilometers, much of it a long
asphalt roads.

A better option is to continue another five kilometers to thelovely town of Letohrad, which actually boasts two sweets shops on the arcaded Baroque square. The railway station is another two kilometers down the road. If you have any energy left – or if you want to replenish your stores – stop by the large, stone barn on the hill. It is an old farmstead which now houses an excellent Museum of Traditional Handicrafts and – what is of more interest to us at this point – an excellent restaurant.

Trains from Letohrad run back to Sopotnice and Potštejn almost every hour.

Golf in the Czech Republic has registered a rapid growth in the past few years reflected in increasing number of registered players (from 1,500 in 1990 to 25,000 in 2006) and in continuous new golf courses construction (from 6 in 1990 to 62 in 2006). As the Czech Republic features beautiful landscape, nature and interesting historical objects also many of the existing golf courses seeded in those surroundings can offer breathtaking views. The following nine holes were selected from 9 different 18-hole championship golf courses around the whole country. Even though it is almost impossible to declare which golf holes are the most beautiful as different people have different views and opinions, these nine holes have one thing in common – incredible views and interesting layout offering several different ways how to conquer the hole, depending on players strategy and playing skills.

HOLE NO. 2, KARLŠTEJN GOLF RESORT
PAR 4, 308 METERS BACK TEES
Redesigned by Alex Čejka in 2002, this relatively short par 4 playing downhill is a typical risk / reward hole. Better players can try to go for the green guarded by 2 smaller lakes in the front, large lake to the left of the green and out- -of-bounds on the right, with their first shot creating an eagle opportunity. But if you fail to hit the green you can get in to a lot of trouble so the safest way is to place a long iron on a plateau leaving a short iron to a large green.

HOLE NO. 17, GOLF RESORT KARLOVY VARY
PAR 3, 193 METERS BACK TEES
This georgeous par 3 (quite long from the back tees) of the oldest golf club in Czech Republic (founded 1904) is a challenging one. Played slightly uphill over two small lakes with a fountain requires an accurate medium / long iron tee shot to a green well guarded by a deep bunker on the left a shallow one on the right catching sliced shots. Pin position on the left front part of the green is a great challenge even for professional players.

HOLE NO. 16,
ROYAL GOLF CLUB MARIÁNSKÉ LÁZNĚ
PAR 4, 347 METERS BACK TEES
Starting a stretch of last 3 finishing holes of the oldest golf course in Czech Republic (established by king Edward in 1905) where close matches can go either way, this hole starts putting pressure on players from the first moment. This hole requires a very accurate downhill drive played through a extremely narrow forrest bottleneck ideally with slight draw to the left or a short shot in front of the two water hazards on the right. Slightly elevated large green is guarded by 3 bunkers in the front.


HOLE NO. 12, PODĚBRADY GOLF CLUB
PAR 5, 416 METERS BACK TEES
Pitoresque double dog leg short par five cut in a forrest requires three very accurace iron shots without a chance of reaching green in two due to its unique S shape. Losing concentration on this hole can lead to double digit scores, so be careful!

HOLE NO. 5, ASTORIA GOLF CLUB CIHELNY
PAR 3, 106 METERS BACK TEES
A signature hole of Cihelny golf course designed by one of the sports legends – Gary Player in late 1990’s. Very short yet tricky par 3 played very steep downhill (about 20 meters) guarded by rocks in the front and out of bounds behind the green requires a delicate pitch shot demanding extremely good distance judgement. In windy conditions very dangerous but – simply beautiful.

HOLE NO. 12, GOLF CLUB AUSTERLITZ
PAR 3, 200 METERS BACK TEES
On the fields where Napoleon fought at the Slavkov battle few centuries ago different yet sometimes even more hostile battles are being fought by brave soldiers called golf players trying to conquer the Austerlitz golf course closely reminding famous Scottish links courses. Par 3 12th hole with tee boxes placed at the highest point of the gives a magnificent view of the entire golf course including the view of the Slavkov town and majestic castle. In windy conditions this is the toughest hole on course giving almost no space for error while attacking a narrow green lying well below golfers feet with steep slopes on both sides eating up all the balls showing just a slight degree of inacurracy.

HOLE NO. 1, PARK GOLF CLUB
OSTRAVA-ŠILHEŘOVICE
PAR 5, 448 METERS BACK TEES
An elegant starting hole of the first golf course in Ostrava region carefully placed in a large park dominated by Rotschild castle. A tee shot on the right side of the fairway eliminates from play a large willowtree placed in the middle of the valley fairway next to a large empty stone fountain which is catching those long pulled drives but forgiving players in form of a free drop. Above the fountain a golfer getting ready for his second shot is overwhelmed by a majestic view of large Rotschild´s castle – trademark of the Šilheřovice course. A bold and skilled player can go for the green with his second shot over the top of the hill or even large oak trees, but, bear in mind that it is a blind, faded, high, over 200 meters long and dangerous shot. So safe medium iron over the top of the hill will leave you a good chance for a solid par, maybe even a birdie.

HOLE NO. 12, NEW COURSE,
PROSPER GOLF CLUB ČELADNÁ
PAR 4, 404 METERS BACK TEES
Designed by wel known professional player Miguel Angel Jimenez, this north Moravian golf resort which was built in recent years is the largest resort in the Czech Republic, featuring 2 fully fledged 18-hole championship golf courses beutifly nested at the foothil of Beskydy mountains. Hole No. 12 on the New Course is a real tester of golfers abilities, specially if facing a strong wind. Even a long drive requires an excellent second shot over a large lake n order to reach a large, undulated green in regulation. Playing this hole as a par 5, i.e. laying up your second shot in front of the water leaving a wedge to attack the pin isn called discipline and not craveness…

HOLE NO. 14, GOLF PARK PLZEŇ-DÝŠINA
PAR 5, 434 METERS BACK TEES
The only hole on this list with a blind first and mostly also second shot. Played as a dogleg to the right up a steep hill in the first half of the hole. Two careful shots leve a short/ medium iron played downhill over a valley into a green well guarded by a large bunker on the left and trees on the right. Tiger Woods breed of player can try a shortcut with his tee shot over a deep valley on the right leving (if sucessfull) around 200 meter shot to the green, still hard to stop close to the pin if placed n the front. A hole testing players strategic thinking and discipline.