There are four growing regions but vines are mainly planted at a latitude of 27 – 34 degrees South, in the Coastal Region of the Western Cape, where spectacular mountain ranges frame some of the most beautiful vineyards in the world. Well-established wine farms threaded along the coast are seldom further than 50 kilometers from the ocean. Here, the constant interaction between towering peaks, criss-crossing valleys and the meeting of the cold Atlantic and the warmer Indian Ocean, provides welcome relief from warm summer temperatures. Additionally, cool afternoon breezes keep mean temperatures during February – harvest time – around 22 degrees Celsius.

But wine-growing in South Africa was not always thus. The only vine natural to South Africa is called Rhoicissus Tomentosa (Capensis), also called African Grape or monkey rope. These woody lianas easily climb to 20 meters in the high canopy forests, providing treetop access to monkeys, baboons and other forest creatures. However, while the fruit is edible, it cannot be used for making wine. That had to wait until the seventeenth century.

The Dutch East India Company established a supply station at the Cape in 1652 to provide sustenance to the brave fleets taking on the stormy Southern oceans on their way to the alluring riches of the East. The first Dutch Governor, Jan van Riebeeck and his gardener, Hendrik Boom, established a vineyard in Green Point – now home to the impressive FIFA Soccer World Cup stadium. The pressing of the first precious drops of wine was recorded in his diary on 2 February, 1659. Last year, a number of wonderful retrospective wine tastings, wine festivals and historic vine-planting ceremonies were held around the Cape Winelands to celebrate the landmark event of 350 years of Cape Wine.

With the release of Nelson Mandela in 1990 and the advent of democracy sixteen years ago, a renewed creative energy caused dramatic changes to the wine industry. Forward-thinking winemakers and viticulturists embraced advances and new technology without losing the art of capturing the spirit of place in their wines. And now, the Rainbow Nation, as South Africa is fondly known, has truly discovered the treasure of its ancient soils and is captivating local as well as international markets with wines of individuality, character and integrity.

Exports have grown from fewer than 50 million litres in 1994 to 411 million litres, 53.9% of total wine production, in 2008. Recently South African wine imports into the UK surpassed those of France, placing South Africa fourth in this important market. Quality control for export is stringent. Samples of all wines for export are sent to the Wine and Spirit Board for tasting and chemical analysis. An official seal is given to each bottle which verifies that the claims made on the label are true, thereby ensuring the integrity of every bottle that leaves the shores. This year new lightweight bottles have been introduced in an effort to reduce the industry’s carbon footprint.

Colourful, passionate and inspirational characters abound amongst growers and winemakers, with a sprinkling of anarchy and unconventional opinion added to the mix, this provides the breeding ground for young talent to develop and forge new paths Windswept and energetic, Duncan Savage, the young winemaker of Cape Point Vineyards, encapsulates the new face of the South African wine industry. Expressing his unique terroir on the thin stretch of peninsula towards Cape Point, he is making world-class, mineral edged, Sauvignon Blanc from spectacular sea-facing vineyards planted in 1996. The wine is herbaceous in youth but develops texture and depth with maturity. Savage is constantly developing new ideas and has recently started using 600-liter clay amphorae for red and white wine making and maturation. His enthusiasm is tangible, and completely believable when he says: ‘For me South Africa is “watch this space”. The potential is huge.’ Sauvignon Blanc is planted widely and one of South Africa’s big success stories, producing herbaceous or more tropical styles with equal success.

My own passion for wine was nurtured by the generosity and shared knowledge of great characters, not only in the Cape Winelands but around the world. Living legend Spatz Sperling from Delheim, Johnny Hugel from Alsace and many others fanned the flame.

Adjacent to the Cape Point vineyards, facing False Bay, is the historic Constantia Valley, where grapes were first planted in the 17th century. Vineyards cling to the Eastern slopes of Constantia berg where the cooling ocean breezes ensure slow ripening. Here, many famous estates such as Groot Constantia, Steenberg, Buitenverwachting as well as Klein Constantia continue to produce award-winning wines of great finesse and elegance. Klein Constantia produces South Africa’s most famous unfortified sweet wine made from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (Muscat de Frontignan). The varieties, Pontac, red and white Muscadel and a little Chenin Blanc were included in the historic wine that was prized in the 18th century by Europe’s aristocracy: it is even said that Napoleon asked for a glass of Constantia on his death bed.

Talented young winemaker Adam Mason, now entrusted with the wines on the estate, believes in creating the wines in the vineyard, and simple ‘hands-off’ guidance in the cellar. His wines are focused and resonate with authentic brilliance. The Vin de Constance is richly aromatic with a nose of candied orange, sun-dried peaches and sandalwood – imparting a sense of history and golden sun-filled days in every glass. Limited quantities are allocated to selected outlets in Europe where it is eagerly sought after by connoisseurs.

And the wards keep coming. A recent triumph for South Africa on the international wine stage was Danie Steytler’s Kaapzicht Steytler Pinotage 2006, which won the International Trophy for Top Red Single Varietal wine in the World at the 2009 Decanter World Wine Awards in London. The wine was competing against some 10,285 entries. My tasting note on the wine reads ”The wine has deep layers of black fruit, mulberry and spiced plums with harmonious tannins giving definition to multi-layered fruit; richly textured yet elegant with the balance to age beautifully.” Danie is a true artist of the soil, to whom such accolades are nothing new: his Steytler Vision 2001 (Pinotage/Cabernet blend) was named best red blend in the world in 2004 International Wine and Spirit Competition in London. He loves to experiment with new wine styles; and his Marketing Director and wife Yngvild sometimes – if proudly – despairs at having another wine to sell! Danie is a member of the prestigious Cape Wine Makers Guild. Members are invited by their peers in recognition of at least 5 years of winemaking excellence. An annual auction of these rare limited edition, collector’s wines, is held on the first Saturday of October, attracting buyers from around the world.

Pinotage is a South African homegrown variety created in 1925 by Professor Abraham Perold. He successfully crossed Cinsaut (then known as Hermitage) and Pinot Noir to marry the reliability of the former with the nobility of the latter. At best it makes densely textured wines with great longevity and easy drinking, the fruity styles which are gaining popularity amongst younger consumers. On the cellar wall of the famous Pinotage producer, Kanonkop , the following words appear: “Pinotage is a wine made from women’s tongues and lion’s hearts: drink enough of it and you could talk forever and fight the devil!”

The versatile Chenin Blanc still comprises about 19% of plantings and is enjoying its elevation from workhorse grape to ultra-chic varietal. Precious old bush vines are given tender love and care by Chenin enthusiasts such as fellow Cape Wine Master, Irina von Holt of Old Vines Cellars. She specializes in the production of characterful Chenin – including an outstanding Methode Cape Classique sparkler! South Africa’s Chenin plantings are the largest in the world, surpassing those of its home ground in the Loire region of France. Wine styles vary from light, unwooded quaffers to seriously slick, barrique-aged numbers from cellars such as Raats, Ken Forrester and Jean Daneel. Cabernet Sauvignon is still the most planted red varietal with sensual Shiraz catching up fast. Cabernet makes characterful wines with great structure and longevity while Shiraz can produce elegant spicy/peppery wines in the cooler areas or rich, velvety wines bursting with fruit from the warmer vineyards. Some older styles can have a pungent earthiness which was once described to me as reminiscent of “farm-yard and horse stables”, whilst Shiraz with a touch of Viognier blended in can be delicious, with the floral tones of the white grape lifting the dark fruit and spice of the Shiraz.

All these vinous riches lie within the world-renowned botanical biodiversity of the Cape Floral Kingdom. Recently declared a world heritage site, its is the smallest and richest of six such kingdoms in the world containing an abundance of rare floral species. South Africa is recognised as a world leader in sustainable winegrowing, with two encompassing initiatives to protect the environment. The Biodiversity in Wine Initiative, which began in 2004, now has 170 participants pledged to protect 118,500 hectares of the unique fynbos and renosterveld, covering 20% more land than that of the vineyard footprint. Moreover, the compulsory Integrated Production of Wine guidelines, in place since 1998, provide for environmentally sustainable practices both in the vineyards and the cellar as well as the protection of biodiversity. Exciting experiments, such as using indigenous plants as cover crops, are also in progress., and all these initiatives have now been fully integrated into an industry handbook for sustainable farming. With vintners pushing the boundaries of new vineyards to ever higher slopes and extremities, these measures will ensure that what makes us unique, will not be sacrificed on the altar of Bacchus.

A vintner once said: “I enjoy winemaking because this sublime nectar is simply incapable of lying. A bit too early a bit too late – the wine will always whisper into your mouth with complete, unabashed honesty, every time you take a sip”. With respect, vision and a quest for quality, the honest message of South African wine is being whispered into mouths across the globe.

By Elsie Pells

    

“Albertov – where is that?” has been the general retort that I have received when eulogising about the new restaurant that I discovered at the end of last year, La Galerie. It is, in fact, an up and coming area of Prague 2, just down the hill from Karlovo Náměstí, where Jiří Muška has seen a dream come true by constructing six buildings offering 269 rental apartments.

In front of them, at Na slupi 2b, is another magnificent self-contained house that is home to his three-level restaurant. No expense has been spared to create one of the most luxurious eating venues in Prague, lapacho (Brazilian walnut) and Israeli travertine flooring, matching tables and suede covered chairs complement elegantly plastered and exposed brick walls.   

 The entry floor of La Galerie is at street level. Having passed through the entrance hall you find yourself within a room where they offer you a choice of three breakfasts: Czech, English or French, all priced at CZK 139 and served from 07.00 until 10.30. There is a large choice of fresh juices, available in various sizes and combinations, as well as a variety of waters, soft drinks, teas and coffees. If, for whatever reason, the thought of breakfast does not appeal, then also from 07.00, but now until 18.00, you may choose from a Czech-oriented lunch and afternoon menu. On offer are soups, such as Kulajda, starters, a Caesar salad, pasta and meat dishes, and an extensive choice of homemade desserts, including Caramel Vetrnik, which contains fresh cognac whipped cream.    

The second part of the day commences at 18.00 when the upstairs part closes and the action moves down a level to the main restaurant. The main features here are the open-plan kitchen, the large fireplace containing a grill that is large enough to roast a whole animal, and the aquarium that contains a large number of lobsters.

The restaurant is completely no smoking. On the lowest level, however, you will find the lounge, where it is possible to choose from their extensive range of cigars, whilst enjoying an after dinner drink or two. Downstairs, you will also find the glass-fronted, temperature-controlled wine cellar, which boasts not only a minimum of one bottle of Mouton Rothschild for all 50 years from 1955 to 2004, but also an interesting selection of magnums, Jeroboams, Methuselahs and Salmanazars, right up to a Melchior, which is 18 litres, of a claret, Chateau Tour Haut-Caussan 2005. The walls are adorned with lithographs of the Mouton Rothschild labels. La Chaine des Rotisseurs recently used La Galerie as the venue for their visiting Tuscan chef , and an amazing evening was enjoyed by over 80 guests.   

There is ample parking for the restaurant’s clients and even the possibility of staying overnight in one of the rental apartments. 

About the reviewer: Nigel Mort is a founding member of the Czech Bailliage and is currently its Chancelier. He is CEO of CAPITAL PROPERTIES s.r.o., an estate agency that specializes in selling residential property both in Prague and throughout the Czech Republic. Nigel is well-qualified to comment on the wining and dining scene in Prague as he eats out 365 days a year. If you have any restaurant tips or food-related gossip, you may contact Nigel at  nigel@chaine.cz

It’s called the Liquid Gold of Moravia – and the Icy Gamble. To make it, you need skill, patience, luck, nerves like steel and enough sense of humor to laugh it off if it all goes wrong. Ice wine. Retailing as high as CZK 700 for a 3.5 dcl bottle – or CZK 400 per glass — it promises riches, and just as easily it can bring heartbreak.Two years ago, Milan and Ludmila Kosík, who run a pension and make wine in Perna, a tiny viticultural village nestled at the foot of Southern Moravia’s Palava massif, made a neat profit on their top-quality ice wine. “We had a 41-degree sugar content — the highest in the village,” boasts Milan. “The whole house was sticky,” Ludmila confirms. “He kept bringing samples up from the cellar into the house to test.” That year, the frost came on time — on Christmas Day — and their three children were on hand to help pick the grapes. The next year, encouraged, Milan set aside a dozen rows of his prized Sauvignon grapes. He hired pickers, and throughout December they waited for the mercury to drop to the requisite -7 degrees Celsius. And waited, and waited.

“A few nights it got down to minus five, and we would all sit around waiting for it to drop those two extra degrees — and it never did,” Milan shakes his head. He and his family had even picked a few rows from the road, so passersby couldn’t see there were still grapes on the vine. “There are people who would steal them to make straw wine,” Ludmila explains. On January 8, Milan went out to check on the vineyard. “A few minutes later, my cellphone rang, and all I heard was cursing,” Ludmila recalls.

It was the sparrows. In a scene worthy of Hitchcock, they devoured a crop worth CZK 180,000 (USD 9,000) in less than 15 minutes.“They were everywhere — thousands of them — and they wouldn’t budge,” Milan finishes the story. “I’d swat at one, and it would just hop off a few inches, and keep pecking.” “I cried myself to sleep that night,” Ludmila says. “It worked out in Novosedly,” Milan adds. Ten kilometers to the southwest, in the village of Novosedly, Petr Marcinčák, the largest producer of straw and ice wine in Europe, harvested several tons of ice-hard grapes. “Ice wine is risky business, but you know that going into it,” Petr says. “If you can’t handle it, make straw wine.”

The Magic Limit
In pre-global-warming times, when hard frosts came around Christmastime, reaching -7 degrees Celsius was not such a problem. But nowadays growers often have to wait until January or even February for a good frost — if it comes at all. And that’s assuming vineyard thieves, or sparrows, or rot doesn’t get to the grapes first – or that they don’t shrivel up into useless raisins. At that point, it really is better to just give up and make straw wine. But getting the harvest in is just the start. In ice wine, the forces of nature, the quality of the plant and the skill of the human are intertwined to the utmost degree. First, in the progressive dry frosts common to these northern latitudes, the sugar concentrates in the grapes.

But thanks to some mysterious process understood only by the vine, the grapes don’t freeze completely. Only the water in the fruit forms ice crystals. The remaining, highly concentrated syrup – about a fifth of what would come out of an ordinary, non-frozen grape – is pressed out very, very gently. (Needless to say, the grapes must stay frozen throughout the entire harvesting and pressing process – which often takes place at night). Wine makers use a special pneumatic bladder press, which extracts the essence without breaking the grape or crushing the seeds. “It took ten days for the must to defrost and I ended up making a very decent ‘kabinet’ wine out of it,” Milan Kosík recalls with satisfaction. Pressing can take anywhere from 10 hours to three days, depending on the degree to which the grapes are frozen. What comes out is a golden, syrupy liquid, so high in sugar (the minimum is 27 degrees on the CNM Czecho-Slovak Normalized Weight Scale, but 35 to 40 degrees is deemed best) that it’s not easy to get the fermentation process going at all. Once it does, it takes an extremely long time for the wine to reach the desired 11 percent alcohol content.

This is because sugar is actually a conservative and, in such a high concentration, it would ordinarily kill the wine-making yeast. On the other hand, it is just as hard to make the fermentation process stop; if you don’t, you will end up with a very dry sherry. This is done by rapid cooling: either the vat is carried out into the frost, or it is chilled automatically in aluminum vats with built-in temperature regulation.Decanting and filling into slim, 3.5 dcl bottles is the final step before the wine is sold, to a dealer, vinotheque or restaurant where it retails for up to CZK 750 (USD 37) per bottle. The entire production process, from harvesting through bottling, is strictly monitored by the district wine inspector, who makes sure the grapes are harvested at the correct temperature, notes the sugar content in the must (to ensure sugar will not be added later), supervises the filling process, and finally gives each bottle of ice wine its own identification number.

Last Year’s Summer in a Glass
Many Moravian wine makers, well aware of the pitfalls, know they can’t put all their money – or hopes – on ice wine, and make straw wine instead. Equal to ice wine in cost, straw wine is heavier and is said to lack the sparkling tartness for which ice wines are so prized. But it is not dependent on the whims of the weather. Well-known since pre-Roman times, straw wine is made from grapes left to dry on beds of straw, thought to have disinfectant qualities. Only the healthiest grapes can be used because, like any fruit, they are subject to rotting. Under close supervision, they are left to dry in well-aired attics for at least three months, or until the sugar content in the juice reaches at least 27 degrees CNM. The Marcinčák winery, which specializes in straw wine, takes the process a step further. The grapes, which are cultivated strictly according to the principles of Bio-production, using only natural and ecologically-friendly substances, dry for as long as six months, or until the juice reaches a sweetness of between 40 and 60 degrees CNM. The pressing process takes some 36 hours and the resulting juice looks like fresh-spun honey. It is left to ferment until the alcohol content reaches 11 percent and the residual sugar hovers around a whopping 370 grams per liter. The result is an elegant, velvety glassful of wine, tinged with memories of last summer’s wildflowers, honey and fruit.

Perfect for a dressed-down business lunch or casual eveningmeet-up, Cantina, Prague’s first mexican restaurant, is still sending out fiesta-worthy fare.

Once upon a time, international dining was considered an oxymoron in Prague. Today, the city is home to a steadily expanding range of ethnic food restaurants. Prague residents and visitors are no longer limited to the glut of pizza-pasta parlors and Chinese fast-food joints, but can explore Japanese, Mexican, Thai, Middle Eastern, Indian, Vietnamese, and Latin American cuisine at various price points. It’s not improbable to imagine that Prague could some day match the culinary breadth and depth of top Western European destinations such as London and Amsterdam.

If international dining in Prague still appears to be a new frontier, then Cantina is undoubtedly one of its early settlers. Located in Malá Strana, the Mexican restaurant has consistently earned praise from locals and expatriates since it opened its doors in 1997. Easy access by a variety of trams to the restaurant’s location on Újezd keeps the restaurant perpetually busy. Making reservations is strongly recommended.

I recruited a friend — a Mexican food newbie — for a meal on a late summer afternoon. We apparently had just missed the lunchtime rush, but the restaurant was still half-full and was occupied by a mix of young families, business people, couples, and a tourist group. If the restaurant’s mustard yellow walls, burlap bag-lined ceiling and tall cacti seemed a tad South of the Border kitschy

toasted garlic bread slices rounded out the dish. We concluded that the ceviche, like the atzeca, would do well as a light meal. After giving our appetizers high marks, we looked forward to the entrees.

Ordering a burrito, a Mexican staple, is not unlike receiving a gift. It comes tightly wrapped and there’s no telling your reaction — joy, indifference, or disappointment — to its content. To find out, you just have to dig in tentatively (or eagerly). Taking apart the flour tortilla wrapping of Cantina’s burrito de ranchero revealed strips of tender marinated beef and a creamy blend of refried beans, rice, and cheese. It was a good gift accompanied by fresh salsa, sour cream and a small balsamic tossed side salad. How would a house specialty fare? We also requested the lomositas chipotle, described as pork in spicy sauce from chili peppers. Unless you’re a huge fan of chipotle, you might find the taste of the dish overwhelmingly smoky. The lomositas came with two sides: an oddly sweet Spanish rice — unexpected since the dish was described as spicy — and cheese quesadillas. The quesadillas were as promised: warm and generously filled with cheese. One more point for a classic.

Compared to its extensive list of entrees, Cantina offers a mere five choices for dessert. To make up for the lomositas and to get back on the simplicity train, I ordered the torta de choco, a traditional chocolate dessert. The torta was served cold with a generous dollop of whipped cream. Smooth and light on the palate, we made quick work of it. It would have gone down as well served warm and with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream. If the torta de choco was a modest production, then the restaurant’s Captain Morgan’s Ice Cream would be akin to Mardi Gras on a plate: scoops of chocolate and vanilla ice cream, sprinkled with rum-soaked plump raisins, then doused in whipped cream and chocolate sauce, and delivered in a massive fried tortilla bowl. Sometimes it is possible to have too much of a good thing, and in the case of Captain Morgan’s Ice Cream it helps to spread the good around. Though we stuck to non-alcoholic drinks because it was a working lunch, it’s worth mentioning that Cantina has an impressive list of tequilas, the traditional Mexican liquor made from blue agave. Selections are available based on the liquor’s aging process: from no aging done at all to a few months, to a year or more.

There are some ethnic food restaurants in Prague that take advantage of their positioning as “the first”, “the only”, or “one of a few” to churn out watered-down dishes that do pale in comparison to the deliciousness and flavor of their native cuisine. As the first Mexican restaurant in Prague (as proudly proclaimed on its website), Cantina however has managed to avoid that smear by sending out fresh, good quality Mexican meals and even earning the effusive endorsement and patronage of the Mexican Embassy along the way. If you seek authentic Mexican, it’ll be hard to go wrong at Cantina.

Once upon a time, international dining was considered an oxymoron in Prague. Today, the city is home to a steadily expanding range of ethnic food restaurants. Prague residents and visitors are no longer limited to the glut of pizza-pasta parlors and Chinese fast-food joints, but can explore Japanese, Mexican, Thai, Middle Eastern, Indian, Vietnamese, and Latin American cuisine at various price points. It’s not improbable to imagine that Prague could some day match the culinary breadth and depth of top Western European destinations such as London and Amsterdam.

If international dining in Prague still appears to be a new frontier, then Cantina is undoubtedly one of its early settlers. Located in Malá Strana, the Mexican restaurant has consistently earned praise from locals and expatriates since it opened its doors in 1997. Easy access by a variety of trams to the restaurant’s location on Újezd keeps the restaurant perpetually busy. Making reservations is strongly recommended.

I recruited a friend — a Mexican food newbie — for a meal on a late summer afternoon. We apparently had just missed the lunchtime rush, but the restaurant was still half-full and was occupied by a mix of young families, business people, couples, and a tourist group. If the restaurant’s mustard yellow walls, burlap bag-lined ceiling and tall cacti seemed a tad South of the Border kitschy, that was soon forgotten as we became engrossed by Cantina’s well-orchestrated food theatre: the swift and polite wait staff delivering sizzling platters of meat, a smorgasbord of sides, warm baskets of tortilla, and tequila shots to neighboring tables.

Sometimes the test of a restaurant is not how creatively or elaborately it can turn out a meal, but how it delivers on the basics. We started with a traditional Indian soup: sopa Atzeca — a medley of black beans, fresh corn and tomatoes, nachos and cheese. For those who enjoy texture, the soup had an appealing mix of smooth (the cheese) and crunch (the corn and the nachos). With its simple ingredients, the Atzeca had a home-made quality to it as befitting any comfort food. (After the last spoonful, I was tempted to recline on my bench for a nap.) The portion was generous for a starter and I could imagine ordering the Atzeca solo as a quick and fulfilling meal on another visit.

With a second starter, the ceviche de salmon, Cantina’s adept handling of simple ingredients shone through again. Marinated strips of salmon were packed atop a towering mound of finely chopped lettuce, tomatoes and red onions. The salmon strips were pleasingly robust and well-steeped in a cilantro-infused olive oil, garlic and lime marinade that gives the ceviche its trademark refreshing tang. The vegetables had a healthy tone to them — telltale signs of oxidization were absent — and warm toasted garlic bread slices rounded out the dish. We concluded that the ceviche, like the atzeca, would do well as a light meal. After giving our appetizers high marks, we looked forward to the entrees.

Ordering a burrito, a Mexican staple, is not unlike receiving a gift. It comes tightly wrapped and there’s no telling your reaction — joy, indifference, or disappointment — to its content. To find out, you just have to dig in tentatively (or eagerly). Taking apart the flour tortilla wrapping of Cantina’s burrito de ranchero revealed strips of tender marinated beef and a creamy blend of refried beans, rice, and cheese. It was a good gift accompanied by fresh salsa, sour cream and a small balsamic tossed side salad. How would a house specialty fare? We also requested the lomositas chipotle, described as pork in spicy sauce from chili peppers. Unless you’re a huge fan of chipotle, you might find the taste of the dish overwhelmingly smoky. The lomositas came with two sides: an oddly sweet Spanish rice — unexpected since the dish was described as spicy — and cheese quesadillas. The quesadillas were as promised: warm and generously filled with cheese. One more point for a classic.

Compared to its extensive list of entrees, Cantina offers a mere five choices for dessert. To make up for the lomositas and to get back on the simplicity train, I ordered the torta de choco, a traditional chocolate dessert. The torta was served cold with a generous dollop of whipped cream. Smooth and light on the palate, we made quick work of it. It would have gone down as well served warm and with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream. If the torta de choco was a modest production, then the restaurant’s Captain Morgan’s Ice Cream would be akin to Mardi Gras on a plate: scoops of chocolate and vanilla ice cream, sprinkled with rum-soaked plump raisins, then doused in whipped cream and chocolate sauce, and delivered in a massive fried tortilla bowl. Sometimes it is possible to have too much of a good thing, and in the case of Captain Morgan’s Ice Cream it helps to spread the good around. Though we stuck to non-alcoholic drinks because it was a working lunch, it’s worth mentioning that Cantina has an impressive list of tequilas, the traditional Mexican liquor made from blue agave. Selections are available based on the liquor’s aging process: from no aging done at all to a few months, to a year or more.

There are some ethnic food restaurants in Prague that take advantage of their positioning as “the first”, “the only”, or “one of a few” to churn out watered-down dishes that do pale in comparison to the deliciousness and flavor of their native cuisine. As the first Mexican restaurant in Prague (as proudly proclaimed on its website), Cantina however has managed to avoid that smear by sending out fresh, good quality Mexican meals and even earning the effusive endorsement and patronage of the Mexican Embassy along the way. If you seek authentic Mexican, it’ll be hard to go wrong at

The story of Benešov’s modest brewery,

Pivovar Ferdinand

Most people associate the Benešov area (50 km south of Prague) with beautiful Konopiště Chateau, the forested retreat that attracts the better part of the tourist majority who visit the region. But the town’s lesser-known sites are worth a look as well, in particular the enchanting Ferdinand brewery, right in the heart of the city of Benešov.

The first record of a brewery in Benešov dates back to 1595, the year the townsfolk were granted the right to make beer. Brewing met with various degrees of success through the ages, with the local brewery mainly producing the black and wheat malts that were used to craft old pales, and dark, bitter ales. In 1887, financial difficulties forced the city-owned venture to sell to Konopiště tenant Franz Ferdinand d’Este — the same man whose assassination in Sarajevo in 1914 would become the catalyst for World War I. By 1897, Ferdinand d’Este had successfully overhauled the brewery, laying the foundations and erecting the buildings that, apart from some minor alterations, are still in use today.

Visitors to Pivovar Ferdinand, located a short stroll from the city center and inconspicuously nestled among old apartment blocks and schools, are immediately drawn to its pale yellow-green exterior and striking red chimney. Entering through the main gate is to take a step back in time, into a cobblestone courtyard where it’s easy to conjure up an era when horses pulled wagons laden with wooden barrels. The tiny outbuildings are seemingly from another era as well — confirmation that Ferdinand is no global conglomerate but a small, independent brewery set on doing things the traditional way. And indeed “quality, not quantity” seems to be the mantra here, with brewers selecting and drying regionally grown malt, Saaz hops from the Žatec area (a world famous hops-growing region 80 km northwest of Prague), and keeping a careful watch on the proceedings without computerized help.

On a recent visit to Ferdinand, I met Ms. Eva Čechmanová from the company’s sales and marketing division. She graciously updated me on the company’s recent history and place in the current market. During the 1990s and up until a few years ago, when there was a huge boom in the Czech Republic for cheap beer, the brewery was producing as much as 200,000 hectoliters (hl) annually.

Deciding to forgo larger batches in favor of better flavor, Ferdinand ceased production of nondescript beers and now outputs just 50,000 hl a year and employs a workforce of approximately 40. The brewery has withstood the economic downturn by concentrating on its core regional consumers. Quality malt makes for a swift side business — Ferdinand is able to dry more than twice the amount of malt it actually requires for production and sells the surplus to other breweries that are without drying facilities.

I was lucky enough to be given a private tour by the head brewer himself, Mr. Jaroslav Lebeda, who has been manning the pumps, hoses, and vats at Ferdinand for more than 20 years, and has been Head Brewer since 2007. Lebeda gets an unmistakable sparkle in his eye as explains that the beer is made with traditional ingredients, using classical technological processes. (Another point of pride is that the company is Czech-owned). A quick glance around tells me that “classical technological processes” is no mere marketing slogan. The equipment here resembles museum pieces. Says Lebeda, “The steel brew kettles have been in constant use since 1916, after they replaced the original copper ones that were taken away to be made into canons during World War I.”

Much of the machinery used in the brewery was designed and built almost a century ago but is still functioning so there’s no reason to update.” Watching brew master Lebeda make his rounds, keeping a careful eye on operations and pausing to chat with his staff about the state of various batches, it’s tough to imagine the same tender-loving care going into production floor of bigger-name brands.

When I finally sit down to a pint at a pub in the town square, just around the corner from Pivovar Ferdinand, it’s their Premium Light Lager, distinctively sweeter than a Pilsner Urquell or a Staropramen with a crisp, hoppy finish. As I drink, the image of Lebeda lovingly tending his brew like a mother to a newborn is still fresh in my mind, giving the lager even more depth. Like a tomato fresh from the earth, Lebeda’s beer tastes wholesome — and these days that’s a rarity.

Ferdinand by the Numbers

Tours of the brewery and tastings can be scheduled by appointment through the Pivovar Ferdinand offices (+420 317 722 511).

To sample Mr. Lebeda’s craftsmanship in Prague, visit the brewery’s own pub, Ferdinanda, at Politických vězňů 19 off Wenceslas Square. What to know before you go:

Light Lager Premium 5 %

A beer with the pure, mellow taste and aroma of malt and hops, harmonic bitterness, pleasant bite and semi-full bodied flavour.

Dark Lager 4.5 %

A beer with a delicate caramel aroma, the mellow bitterness of hops and pleasantly sweetish flavour.

Sedm Kulí 5.5 % Special

Flavored, semi-dark beer with herb flavour and a unique, inimitable bittersweet taste

Draught Beer, Light 4 %

A beer with the pure, mellow taste and aroma of malt and hops, harmonic bitterness, pleasant bite and semi full bodied flavour.

Non-alcoholic Beer 0.5 %A beer with the aroma of malt and hops, a distinct copper and sweetish taste and aroma, with the pleasant bitterness of hops.

The highlight of the weekend, the Grand Chapitre Gala Evening, celebrated the induction of new members. The ceremony was followed by a seven-course dinner with paired wines. The Brevnov Monastery provided the perfect venue to match the extraordinary cuisine enjoyed by the members.

Deer and Duck Recipes from Černý Kohout

The Černý Kohout or ‘Black Rooster’ specializes in modern Czech, French and international cuisine. The restaurant was originally founded in 1999 in the village of Klukovice, on the outskirts of Prague. Occasional and regular customers in those times included staff from the office of President Havel, and even the president himself. Within three years it was voted one of the ‘Top Twenty’ restaurants in the Czech Republic by the Gurmán Guide. It also made Condé Nast Traveler magazine’s hot table list 2005.

 The owner-chef, Vojtěch Petřík, is a gastronom par excellence, and cuisine is both a passion and a mission for him. When composing their menus, Mr Petřík places special emphasis on seasonality. He explores traditional dishes and time-honoured recipes, adapting them to fit the requirements of modern gastronomy. He carefully sources his ingredients – herbs, produce, fresh seafood and meat – from domestic farms and homesteads, as well as from reliable importers.

Mr Petřík has spent a lifetime learning the gastronomic arts. He began his culinary career at a top restaurant in Ostrava, followed by stints in the Beskydy Mountains and Dresden in what was then East Germany. Emigration further west was out of the question due to Mr Petřík’s sympathy with the Charter 77 movement. Eventually he and his wife made their way to Prague via Ostrava to become the chef at Svatý Tomaš, which was the oldest pub in Prague (it no longer exists). Finally, they set up Černý Kohout to dedicate themselves to high quality cuisine under their own management.

Duck breast with wild mushrooms and duck liver foie gras sauce (four servings)

Green parsley 50 g

Venison shoulder in homemade bacon and ginger crust served with cranberry sauce in wine:

Hungary means different things to different people. Depending on which side of the iron curtain you were born on, the images that pop into your head when you hear the word “Hungary” most likely vary greatly. If you were born on the western side, the images might be of a grand Budapest, the pivotal point of a magnificent empire of times past or perhaps visions of majestic Turkish spas. Of course, if you happened to be born on the opposite side of the curtain, your memories may be of summer holidays spent on the shores of Lake Balaton. The one image that probably will not first come to mind is wine — good quality wine.

Hungary has a long, proud and checkered history of winemaking that stretches back beyond Roman times. Emília Szabó, who has been based in the Czech Republic for four years, has made it her mission to open people’s eyes to quality Hungarian wines by recently opening up the first Hungarian wine bar, Hungarian Vintage Vines (HVV), in the Czech Republic solely dedicated to wines from that part of the world. Located at the base of Prague castle in Malá Strana , in the courtyard behind the Hungarian restaurant Grotto, Mrs. Szabó is well aware of the long road ahead.

“During the communist rule of Hungary, wineries were nationalized and quotas introduced for wine exports to other socialist countries. This had a detrimental effect on quality. Today most people associate Hungarian wines with cheap prices and low quality,” she explained. Though things are slowly moving in the right direction, many of the traditional winemaking families have regained their lands and, in a cruel twist of fate, many have had to buy them back from the very government that confiscated their lands some 40 years earlier. Many of these family wineries have since taken it upon themselves to once again start manufacturing wines that place quality above quantity and price.

Officially, there are 22 individual wine regions in Hungary. Each region produces distinct and unique wines with some of the better wineries holding their ground with the best winemaking regions of the world.

One of these regions is Villány. Located on rolling hills in the southern part Hungary it enjoys a Mediterranean climate, averaging 2,000 hours of sunshine annually. These conditions give the wines produced here an earthy flavor. Red wine production in the area can be traced to the 1700s and is attributed to Serbian migrants. Today you can commonly find international variety grapes such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon being harvested in the area.

Traveling further south you will eventually arrive at the southernmost winemaking region in the country, Szekszárd, which is the only one in the country that boasts a sub-Mediterranean climate. Because of these ideal conditions winemakers have been inspired for centuries to ply their trade in this part of the world with the specialty being full-bodied red wines. Up until recently the traditional grape in the region was the nativ Kadarka, but in recent years more common types have been introduced such as Cabernet, Merlot, Rose and Pinot Noir amongst others.

Another famed region among the locals is Gyöngyös (Mátra) — known for its white wines. Nestled in the foothills of Mátra Mountain, Gyöngyös is one of the largest of the historical wine regions in Hungary. The soil type is often a brown soil on a volcanic base. Throw in a unique microclimate and you have the perfect conditions for growing some very unique vines.

Whenever there is a discussion about Hungarian wines, one region, and especially one type of wine, is never to be overlooked: Tokaji. This wine is the crown jewel of Hungarian wines. Tokaji comes from the Tokaj-Hegyalja wine region and has been a renowned classic for centuries. This sweet, golden colored aperitif has been a favorite for many throughout history. Some of the people that have sung its praises over time have included Beethoven, Schubert, Peter the Great and Napoleon III who was known to order 30 to 40 barrels for the Court each year.

Mrs. Szabó is well aware that changing people’s perception of Hungarian wines will be a long and arduous journey, but she sees HVV as a small step towards enlightenment. Problems, however, still abound. “There are still many wine producers placing quantity ahead of quality,” she explained. “And there are also large hypermarkets that continue to exert pressure on winemakers to keep their prices at a minimum which also affects quality. But thankfully things are slowly changing.”

So the next time you head off to a dinner party, before you grab that traditional French bottle or one from the trendy new world such as Australia, Chile or California, think about trying something different. Try something with a magnificent history and a long tradition, a wine that assures you it is truly unique. There is one last word of advice from this writer and that is when picking out a bottle of choice be sure you are able to point to it. If not, and you are a mere mortal who tries pronouncing some of these Hungarian names, you may find yourself arriving at that dinner party so tongue-tied that you’ll not be able to enjoy any of the delicacies on offer — the Hungarian wine included.

Selected wines by region

Mátraalja region

The Mátraalja region supports seven main wineries on 7,100 hectares of land and is one of the largest wine growing regions in Hungary. It is known for its exceptionally good white wines one example of which is the Irsai Oliver 2007, a hybrid wine dating from the 1930s. A young, light wine, Irsai Oliver possesses a subtle, fruity bouquet, at once soft and refreshing.

Another is Királyleányka, which translates as “Lady of the King,” a middle-bodied white wine. A hybrid of ancient origin, it has some of the qualities one would find in a fine zinfandel. The taste is sharper than that of the Irsai Oliver and its fruitiness more distant. Yet the Lady of the King seems to dance on the front of the palate before gliding off stage.

Eger region

The Eger region supports 13 wineries on some 5,160 hectares of land. Producing high quality chardonnays, the region also supports a host of red wines including cabernet, merlot and the famous Bikavér or “Bulls Blood”.

The white Ergi Chardonnay Battonage is made through regular rotation of the barrels as the wine ferments, adding a rich, fruity taste with good tannin. This unique, very light chardonnay is delightful and stunningly original.

The rich but subtle red Ergi Bikavér, by definition, can contain up to 12 different types of grapes. Historically connected to Cabernet franc, Merlot and other medium bodied wines, the Ergi Bikavér was praised by Pope Pius XII as a wine that “revives the mood and the will to live.” One taste and it’s easy to agree.

Villány region

The Villány region possesses a microclimate and soil conditions very similar to Bordeaux and produces very special wines. With 23 wineries on 1,890 hectares of land, Villány is known for producing heavy red wines at the highest level.

The 2007 Polgár Portugieser comes from the family run Polgár winery in Villány. While it’s not as heavy as most of the region’s reds, this soft, full-bodied wine is ideal for every day drinking in combination with meat or steak and is notable for its positive health effects.

The 2003 Polgár Piont Noir, a type of wine referred to affectionately as “sex in a glass” when at its best, is tanony also but not too heavy with a rich, savory taste that is not to be missed.

Szekszárd region

The Szekszárd region hosts 14 wineries on 2,250 hectares of land and is home to the award winning Takler winery. It is a family business today run by Ferenc Takler and his two sons, dating back to the 1700s. The Celts first established wine growing in the region
some 2,000 years ago.

The Takler 2007 Rose Cuvée is light, easy and faintly sweet, evoking strawberry and tropical fruit with a rich bouquet and palate. The gold medal winning Takler 2003 Regnum is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc tickled by adding Kékfrankos. This unique wine is vigorous and lush with an aroma of dried fruit. The 2003 vintage was awarded a gold medal at Vinalies in Paris and the title of “Trophée citadelles” at Les Citadelles Du Vin in Bordeaux.

Tokaj region

The most famous wine growing region in Hungary is Tokaj. With 27 wineries on 5,060 hectares of land, the unique climate of the closed region produces the fruity and light Tokaj grape which creates one of Hungary’s and the world’s most cherished dessert wines. The Babits 2000 Tokaji Aszu is an amazing example of just why Tokaj is known the world over.