We urge you to drive slowly when rounding bends on Oregon’s Highway 101 – you’re likely to take your eyes off the road when the stunning Heceta Head lighthouse promontory comes into view.
Fortunately, there’s a scenic viewpoint offering an exquisite panorama of the promontory where the traveler can pull over and savor the view, take photos, or shoot video.

A trip over a dizzyingly high bridge takes you to the lighthouse and its adjacent bed and breakfast, along a narrow, easy-to-miss road leading off the left side of highway when heading northward.
First lit-up in 1894 and still blazing today, Heceta Head lighthouse is the strongest light on the Oregon coast, visible 34km from the shore. At the time it was built, the lighthouse and the caretakers’ houses below (only one has survived, which is now the bed and breakfast), the area was virtually cut off from the outside world; only a wagon road linked it to Florence, to the south, but this road was frequently impossible to travel during the winter. Due to its isolation, the small settlement also contained a post office and a schoolhouse.

In 1932, a highway was built, connecting Heceta Head with Florence,and Yachats, to the north. Two years later, the settlement finally received electricity. Unlike the warm, sandy beaches of many seaside destinations, the Oregon coast is windy, deep, often cold, and frequently rocky (black volcanic rock, which makes for excellent tidepools).

Even in the summer, warm clothing is important for a stroll along the beach. The views, however, are always breathtaking, regardless of the weather. The house is a few minutes’ walk from the lighthouse itself, down a path that, in the spring and summer, is lined with flowers and surrounded by tall Oregon evergreens. Sightseers often make the trek from the state park below all the way to the lighthouse and a small gift shop, stopping along the way to take photos.

Heceta House, in addition to beautiful scenery, fresh air, and public beaches, offers a resident ghost. Known as “Rue”, the ghost allegedly appeared to a workman who was making changes to the house in the 1970s. The workman was in the attic when, startled by a reflection in the window, he turned to see Rue floating towards him. He jumped through the trap door and landed on the floor below without using the ladder. There are many rumors about Rue, such as the story that her baby was buried on the property, and that is why Rue is still in the house.

The website America’s Best and Top Ten lists Heceta Head as number three of the top ten haunted lighthouses in the United States (a slight error; the lighthouse itself is not haunted, but the bed and breakfast is).
Heceta Head is a great base from which to explore the coast. Florence has a colorful Old Town area, with stores offering salt-water taffy, clothing, artwork, and the famous Mo’s seafood restaurant. The area is also located within the Oregon Dunes nature reserve.

But what of the house? What sort of accommodation does it offer? It has six rooms (each with a name), five bathrooms with claw-foot bathtubs in some of them, a seven-course breakfast, completely non-smoking premises, two resident cats, and the option for a private party to rent the entire bed and breakfast for special events.
Every Christmas season, Heceta House holds a Victorian Christmas Open House. Music and refreshments are provided by local musicians and sponsors. Santa makes an appearance, as well, and tours of the lighthouse can be taken at night. Entrance is free of charge, with donations welcomed. The gift shop, near the lighthouse, is open for anyone wanting to indulge in some last-minute holiday shopping. Though small, the gift shop contains a wide variety of lighthouse merchandise – cards, coasters, Christmas ornaments, even salt-and-pepper shakers.
Given the American penchant for staying in haunted lodgings (there are websites devoted to finding haunted hotels, and bed and breakfasts across the United States), Heceta Head has an advantage attracting guests in any case. Its location, stunning natural beauty, and attractions, however, place it in a category all its own

Unlike the warm, sandy beaches of many seaside destinations, the Oregon coast is windy, deep, often cold, and frequently rocky (black volcanic rock, which makes for excellent tidepools). Even in the summer, warm clothing is important for a stroll along the beach. The views, however, are always breathtaking, regardless of the weather.

The house is a few minutes’ walk from the lighthouse itself, down a path that, in the spring and summer, is lined with flowers and surrounded by tall Oregon evergreens. Sightseers often make the trek from the state park below all the way to the lighthouse and a small gift shop, stopping along the way to take photos.
Heceta House, in addition to beautiful scenery, fresh air, and public beaches, offers a resident ghost. Known as “Rue”, the ghost allegedly appeared to a workman who was making changes to the house in the 1970s. The workman was in the attic when, startled by a reflection in the window, he turned to see Rue floating towards him. He jumped through the trap door and landed on the floor below without using the ladder. There are many rumors about Rue, such as the story that her baby was buried on the property, and that is why Rue is still in the house. The website America’s Best and Top Ten lists Heceta Head as number three of the top ten haunted lighthouses in the United States (a slight error; the lighthouse itself is not haunted, but the bed and breakfast is).

Heceta Head is a great base from which to explore the coast. Florence has a colorful Old Town area, with stores offering salt-water taffy, clothing, artwork, and the famous Mo’s seafood restaurant. The area is also located within the Oregon Dunes nature reserve.But what of the house? What sort of accommodation does it offer? It has six rooms (each with a name), five bathrooms with claw-foot bathtubs in some of them, a seven-course breakfast, completely non-smoking premises, two resident cats, and the option for a private party to rent the entire bed and breakfast for special events.

Every Christmas season, Heceta House holds a Victorian Christmas Open House. Music and refreshments are provided by local musicians and sponsors. Santa makes an appearance, as well, and tours of the lighthouse can be taken at night. Entrance is free of charge, with donations welcomed. The gift shop, near the lighthouse, is open for anyone wanting to indulge in some last-minute holiday shopping. Though small, the gift shop contains a wide variety of lighthouse merchandise – cards, coasters, Christmas ornaments, even salt-and-pepper shakers.

Given the American penchant for staying in haunted lodgings (there are websites devoted to finding haunted hotels, and bed and breakfasts across the United States), Heceta Head has an advantage attracting guests in any case. Its location, stunning natural beauty, and attractions, however, place it in a category all its own.

Land of the midnight sun, where reindeer roam miles of virginal forests and Vikings once plied their long-ships down the fjords between looming snow-capped mountain peaks… While the stunning scenery remains unchanged, modern Norway is a diverse and striking blend of the historic, the cultural, the cosmopolitan, and of course, the great outdoors.

If your visions of Norway do not include a modern glass-and-marble opera house, international arts festivals, nor a host of UNESCO-PRotected World Heritage Sites, prepare to be surprised, for that’s exactly what this Scandinavian hotspot has to offer. 

The Kingdom of Norway’s 4.8 million inhabitants are governed by a parliamentary democracy but retain King Harald V as their official Head of State. Declared independent from Sweden in 1905, the country retains its self-reliant streak, owing to the prosperity and excellent social welfare systems that resulted from the discovery of rich oil deposits in the North Sea in the 1960s, and as such has declined membership in the European Union. It’s proud history of seafaring and trade is present in the country’s modern fortunes, offshore oil and gas deposits that have made Norway one of the world’s largest exporters of fuels and related products—and one of it’s wealthiest countries. The high life expectancy and a 2007 ranking as the most peaceful country on the globe, enhance its utopian appeal.Traditionally, much of the Norwegian population was scattered throughout the countryside on isolated farms.

The 20^th century saw not only large-scale emigration to North America, but notable urbanization. In modern-day Oslo, Michelin-rated restaurants and award-winning chefs serve up fresh seafood dishes alongside whale and reindeer steaks, complemented by peppery shots of aquavit, the country’s national spirit, an artesian blend of caraway, aniseed, and dill. A lively jazz scene and bars and cafes that morph into after hours clubs, punctuate the city’s stellar nightlife.

In 2008, the capital unveiled its magnificent modern opera house, among the most technologically advanced musical centres in the world, housing three stages—one of which descends 16 metres below the Oslofjord on which it is perched.

Oslo’s Vigelandsparken Sculpture Park, filled with 192 bronze and granite sculptures by Gustav Vigeland, including a central monolith formed of 121 human forms is also a must-see; the Viking Ship Museum, part of the Museum of Cultural History, deconstructs the fierce warriors whose empire once stretched across Europe; the Munch Museum celebrates Norwegian painter Edvard Munch, housing his unsettling The Scream (stolen in 2004 and recovered in 2006), and other paintings. Another native son, playwright Henrik Ibsen’s Oslo apartment has been converted to a museum. The nature preserves surrounding Oslo are popular day-trip destinations for hiking, boating, and skiing. Author Roald Dahl, who was of Norwegian origin, wrote of the “sensation of absolute peace and beauty” found here.

Norway’s other cities are no less awash in history and culture. UNESCO-protected Røros—a former mining town characterized by its traditional grass-roofed wooden buildings—is a renowned centre for artists and craftsmen; Bryggen, the merchant wharf in Bergen (Norway’s second-largest city, known as the “Gateway to the Fjords”) features well-preserved buildings from the medieval German Hanseatic League, a trade organization active between the 14^th and 16^th centuries. The city also hosts Norway’s oldest annual musical event, the Bergen International Festival. No surprise that composer Edvard Grieg made his home at Troldhaugen in Bergen. The neighboring Stavanger region was selected as the 2008 non-EU European Capital of Culture, paying tribute to the region’s rich artistic heritage, including the Stavanger fiddle tradition, a unique style of fiddle-playing closely related to that of the Shetland Isles in Scotland.

Those who seek complete Scandinavian sanctuary, however, should journey to the Lofoten region, on the country’s northern coast. Comprised of seven main islands offering a wealth of outdoor activities from killer whale safaris to golfing under the midnight sun—play 144 holes in 24 hours—there’s something here for everyone.

Lofoten locals have restored old fishermen’s cabins (rorbuer), charming wooden lodges that make for the perfect accommodation as you explore the area.

The Lofotr Viking Museum at Borg is a living history museum that serves Viking meals and houses the remains of a Viking chieftain’s long-house—the largest building discovered from the Viking period, in Norway and the whole of Europe.

For hiking and breathtaking vistas, the area around the Lysefjord in western Norway takes the prize. Renowned for the crystal-blue waters of the fjord, and best-known for the Preikestolen, or Pulpit Rock—a flat mountain plateau that towers 604 meters over the fjord, created by the melting frost 10,000 years ago—the amazing views out over the Lysefjord are unrivalled. Opportunities for year-round sporting abound in Norway: from skiing and sledding with dogs or reindeer in the wintertime, to hiking, sailing, rafting, golf, and fishing the rest of the year—it’s a true outdoor paradise.

Whether you admire the Northern Lights in the silence of an Arctic winter night, attend a performance in the acoustically awe-inspiring opera house, or take a cruise down a pristine glacial fjord, your time in Norway will surely be remembered as an unforgettable adventure. An artistic work in its own right, Oslo’s stunning Opera House, situated in the Bjørvika district on the banks of the Oslofjord, is a triumph of modern engineering, a tilted slab of white marble and glass “that rises out of the fjord like a giant ice floe” according to London’s The Times. Designed by Norwegian architectural firm Snøhetta, the Opera House took five years to build and was opened in 2008 to international acclaim, winning the Culture category of the inaugural World Architecture Festival in October 2008. Its slanted roof is accessible to the public, integrating the building into the city’s easygoing lifestyle and allowing visitors an unparalleled view over the Oslofjord from which it rises. An integral addition to the city’s cultural core, Oslo’s Opera House is also an important piece of contemporary national heritage, being the largest cultural building constructed since the Nidarosdomen Cathedral was built in Trondheim in the early 14th century.

The size of four football pitches, housing three stages and over 1,000 rooms, the building features local materials, such as Baltic oak in the main auditorium, and interior design from Norwegian artisans, including the country’s largest circular chandelier – a marvel of crystal glass – and balconies carved by boat builders from the nation’s northwest coast. No expense was spared in engineering this magnificent construction: in the main auditorium, which holds an audience of over 1,300, individual seatback screens display subtitles in eight different languages, and the building’s exterior includes a facade of solar panels which help provide its electricity.

(Lofoty photos courtesy of Dr. Pavel Barsa)

The first written reference to Liberec dates back to the year 1352. Situated on the Czech-German-Polish borders and surrounded by the Jizera range, its name in all forms derives from the medieval German word for “rich, resourceful mountain”, a moniker that rings true today. Liberec has grown into one of northern Bohemia’s most up-and-coming cities, boasting more than 105,000 residents. The estimated population for the entire Liberec regions reaches approximately 430,000. It may be the smallest district in the Czech lands, after Prague, but what it lacks in acreage it makes up for in natural and cultural treasures.
An easy, 90-kilometer drive from the country’s capital lands you in the heart of a city that, despite its complicated and controversial past continues to rise.
The history of the textile industry in Liberec stretches back more than 500 years, but it wasn’t until the second half of the 1800 sthat the region began to thrive both culturally and economically. The building of stunning turn-of-the-century edifices and the development of textile and machine factories, as well as glass and jewelry workshops, belie this fact. The ostentatious villas and grand buildings, standing in tribute to this golden era, are slowly being renovated after years of neglect at the hands of the communist regime.
Like many cities that lay on the German border, Liberec is haunted by a sad and controversial past. In 1935, the Sudeten German Party won the town elections, followed in 1938 by the annexation of the Sudetenland by Germany. After the Second World War the region was returned to Czechoslovakia and, with hostility towards the German population at an all-time high, its citizens pushed out the Sudeten German population, rendering the city of Liberec anear ghost town. This difficult and relevantly recent past still stirs up emotions at times, even though many steps have been taken to heal old wounds.
Not all is doom and gloom, however; since the communist shackles fell off in 1989, the region has slowly and surely recovered and today Liberec is an emerging, modern city — its sights set firmly on the future-well on its way to rebuilding its former glory.
An injection of capital from foreign investors made wise to the region’s highly skilled and hard-working workforce, particularly in the fields of engineering and production, has aided in the city’s reinvention. A newly invigorated tourism industry has culminated in the renovation and building of numerous tourist facilities over the past 20 years.

Liberec: Travel and Cultural Attractions

If you have any difficulty deciding on your next get-away, due to the differing interest of family members and other travel companions, then the Liberec region, surrounded by the Jizera and Lužice mountains, and the Krkonoše Mountain National Park holds the key to all-around satisfaction. Only about an hour’sdrive from Prague, it offers something for the serious adrenalin junkie, sportsperson, history devotee, architecture buff, culture aficionado, and, with its top-notch zoo, even animal lovers won’t complain. Just about the only thing missing is sand and surf — but the country’s largest, and perhaps weirdest, water park, Babylon, does the job of getting you wet.
The popularity of the annual Turnov Old Bohemian Craft Markets, held the weekend of May 30 through May 31, attracts a festive crowd who come to glimpse firsthand the traditional crafts such of ceramic turning, glass blowing, stone grinding, wood carving, and more. Food stalls, concerts and performances delight adults and children alike.
The awe-inspiring castles and chateaus of the city of Liberec and the surrounding Liberec region hold plenty of wonders for history and architecture enthusiasts. Majestic Bezděz, a sprawling castle complex originally built in the latter part of the 13th century, has inspired many of the country’s famed artists, poet Karel Hynek Mácha and the composer Bedřich Smetana among them.
A stone’s throw from Bezděz, Castle Houska dates from the same period though has only been open to the public since 1999. Both castles are shrouded in mystery and legend. Sychrov, a beautifully restored chateau complete with lush gardens, is a top destination for fairty-tale weddings, concerts and special events.

A plethora of activities will peak the interest of sport fans and thrill-seekers. Skiing, mountain biking, rock climbing, aerial rope courses, hang gliding and paragliding rival tennis, golf, and hiking in their sweat factor. Exhilarating bobsled runs in Janov nad Nisou, Špindlerův Mlýn and Harrachov also excite. And if dangling from trees Tarzan-like sounds like your cup of tea, head to the Monkey Park in Harrachov or the aptly named Gate to Hell Adrenalin Park in Turnov. Ski resorts Špindlerův Mlýn, Harrachov, Janské Lázně and Rokytnice nad Jizerou don’t shutter their doors once the snow melts — the active summer tourist will dowell here.
After a long day of exploration and adventure relax in one of the regions many wellness centers. If you happen to find yourself in Harrachov, soothe your aching muscles and quench your well- won thirst all in one go at the Beer Spa. Soak in abeer bath either individually or with your partner for 20 minutes, followed by another 20 minute relaxation session and an optional massage. During these phases you can also enjoy what’son tap from the microbrewery — aterrific example of multi-tasking and time management!
Onto more animal pleasures: This year the country’s oldest zoo celebrates 90 years in Liberec. It houses over 170 different species on 13 hectares of land and claims the largest chimpanzee population in the country, along with the zoo’spride and joy, the white tiger.

This is but a small taste of what the city of Liberec and the outlying Liberec region can offer visitors. Infused with arich history and stunning beauty at every turn, it is a corner of the country that’smuch worth discovering. Explore another region of the Czech Republic and get to know its country and people alittle bit more in Liberec. Rich, resourceful — indeed.

“The perfect resort has never been built, nor will it.” So say the dream-destination specialists, Amanresorts. But with the company’s newest venture, Amantaka, a luxury resort tucked away in the lush Laotian countryside, guests may say otherwise.
Located in the UNESCO World Heritage town of Luang Prabang and surrounded by stunning waterfalls, spectacular cliffs, and ancient cave complexes, Amantaka is a well-situated hideaway for weary souls seeking a retreat and cleansing from the rigors of urban living.
The healing starts right away inside the resort’s twenty-four spacious, plush suites, all housed in fifteen French Colonial-styled buildings. A king-sized bed positioned in the center of each suite invites guests to contemplate Nirvana as they gaze at traditional high ceilings. If communing with nature is preferred, just beyond the living room and bedroom are lounge areas shaded by mango trees and large umbrellas. For guests looking to take indulgence up a notch, four Pool Suites come with private 8 m long pools. For added privacy, two stand-alone Amantaka Suites have their own verandas and private treatment rooms.

Gastronomy at Amantaka is a bold mix of local Laotian cuisine and French-inspired cooking. The dining room captures an airy colonial ambiance, while the Lounge Bar provides a relaxed setting for imbibing pre-dinner aperitifs or post-dinner digestifs. At the breezy Pool Terrace, light meals are served all day. Private dining can be arranged in a choice of secluded locations around the property as well as en-suite.
What is a luxury retreat without proper spa amenities? Amantaka has done its spa homework. Guests have the choice of steam and sauna facilities, and four self-contained treatment rooms where treatments include massages, facials, scrubs and wraps that incorporate the best of Southeast Asian beauty and healing techniques. The spa also produces its own line of organic products that guests can purchase to continue their regiments post-treatment. For guests who want to work up a sweat, Amantaka provides a well-equipped fitness center, a swimming pool, tennis courts and gymnasium. A yoga studio for private classes is also available on request.
Luang Prabang, the former capital of Laos, was declared a United Nations World Heritage Site in 1995. Amantaka offers a unique base from which to explore the history of this picturesque town with its vibrant culture and heritage. The town’s highlight is Mount Phou Si or Sacred Mountain, where several Buddhist shrines are located, including the popular temple Wat Chom Si and its spectacular golden spire. From the summit, visitors are treated to a panoramic view of stately white-washed colonial villas and boxy village houses that dot rice fields and banana trees.
Amantaka offers customized guided excursions to additional scenic attractions, including day trips to the Khuang Xi waterfall; jungle tours and elephant rides; visits to local tribal villages in the nearby mountains; sunset climbs up Mount Phou Si, and more. For the resourceful guest, the town is walking distance from the resort; visit the local boutiques and a colorful night market for bargains on local textiles, silks and antiques.
Buddhism is the primary religion practiced in Laos, and in Luang Prabang daily life is marked by the presence of orange-robed learned monks and novices: from early mornings when alms are offered, to sunset when sonorous chants emanate from the town’s many temples. For those so inclined, a visit to Amantaka and thus Luang Prabang can offer a unique opportunity to initiate a personal exploration or renewed appreciation of the Buddhist faith.
True nirvana may seem unattainable for most of us harried mortals, but a visit to Amantaka and Luang Prabang puts it within reach.

For booking please contact reservations@amanresorts.com.

Macedonia. A speck on the map, north of Greece and once part of the former Yugoslavia. A landlocked country with mountainous peaks and valleys, deep basins, lakes and rivers. Its greatest treasure: its warm, hospitable, and at times wonderfully temperamental, people. Until recently, Macedonia’s bigger Balkan brothers and sisters have claimed much of the spotlight, but now this feisty nation is ready for center stage.
Both geographically and culturally, Macedonia is a gateway between the East and the West, with Christian Europe on one side and the mystical Orient on the other. A melting pot of ethnicities and cultures, Macedonia is surrounded by Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, Kosovo and Serbia. It claims a population of just over two million: descendants of Macedonian and Slavic tribes that settled the land as far back as the 5th century A. D., and smaller ethnic groups that include Albanians, Turks, Romas (Gypsies), Serbs, Bosnians and Croats.
The modern Macedonian state was founded on August 2, 1944. On January 31, 1946, the country became part of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. It would not be independent again until September 8, 1991, when it separated from the former Yugoslavia. After gaining its independency, Macedonia found itself the poorest of all the former Yugoslavian states, but recently it has taken steps to bolster its economy by implementing economic reforms such as flat tax rates to attract foreign investments, and by heavily promoting tourism.
Skopje, the capital, with a population of just over a half million is an old and historic city that was coveted by various empires for its vital trade route. Unfortunately, much of the city’s historic charm was destroyed by a deadly earthquake in 1963. Today, perhaps it’s greatest claim to fame is the fact that Mother Teresa was born there. After the earthquake, the city was rebuilt and it is now a vibrant mix of old and new, with countless restaurants, cafés , hotels, nightclubs and casinos.

Though hotel standards in Skopje have yet to rival those of Dubai or London, there are still gems to be found, such as the Hotel Arka or the Stone Bridge Hotel — both of which offer five-star amenities and pampering. Outside of the capital, small, delightful accommodations are dotted across the country, as are ancient healing spas, some dating back to the Ottoman empire. Though it must be noted that these spas concentrate more on remedial therapies than luxurious regimens.
Macedonia’s diversity extends to its food—a combination of Balkan and Mediterranean, with a heavy Turkish influence. A traditional meal may start with Tarator, a cucumber yoghurt salad, or Pindzhur, a relish made from tomatoes, green peppers, aubergine and garlic. Sometimes walnuts are also added and the relish is served with fresh bread and feta cheese. In the countryside, one is likely to stumble upon a small restaurant, where the grinning and hospitable owner welcomes newcomers to sit among the locals and sink their teeth into a Burek, a thin flaky pie usually filled with ham, cheese, spinach and minced beef, or fillings that vary by region. A main course could be Selsko Meso, a favorite with the locals because of its easy preparation: minced meat balls, smoked meat pieces, onions, mushrooms, tomatoes and various spices, all baked in a clay dish and often served with a topping of cheese and cream. The country is also dotted with many crystal clear lakes that allow for fantastic fresh water fish dishes.
Of course, a good meal ought to be accompanied by fine wine. There are three main wine making regions in Macedonia: Povardarie (Central Region), Pchinya — Osogovo (Eastern Region) and Pelagonia — Polog (Western Region). The three regions are further broken up into 16 districts. The largest and best known is the Povardarie (Vardar Valley) region where about 85% of Macedonian wines are produced.
Well-known grape types that produce Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots are all grown alongside indigenous grapes such as Vranec and Stanushina. When experts are asked to describe Macedonian wines, the most common response is “fruit-forward style”. Many find Macedonian wines to be pleasant and delicate with a flavor that lingers on the palate. Local travel tour operators offer various one-day and multi-day tours to different wineries.
If Macedonian wine is a palate-pleaser then its traditional Turkish coffee delivers a jolt. Finely ground roast coffee beans are mixed with sugar and cold water and then added to hot water and brought to the boil once again. A long-standing custom is that an extensive conversation should accompany coffee drinking. Because Macedonians believe there is always much to discuss, guests are offered three servings: the Ozguldum (welcome) coffee, the Muabet (conversation) coffee, and Sikter (farewell) coffee. A visit to two or three homes in a single afternoon can make for a sleepless night.

For the active or adrenaline-seeking tourist, Macedonia’s vertiginous mountain ranges and blue lakes offer a wealth of activities: trekking, paragliding, skiing, mountain biking, rock climbing, canoeing, and more. The country also has an extensive hunting tourism program. Some game parks will help visitors organize all the paperwork and details needed for permits. Accommodations are often in comfortable hotels or lodges that have the necessary creature comforts such as satellite TV, central heating, telephones and others. The game parks have a variety of big game that include deer, mouflon, chamois, wild boar and even bear. Small game includes hare, partridge, pheasant and wild duck.
The reasons to visit this small nation with a big heart are endless. A few days will prove what many are coming to realize: Macedonia moves to a different rhythm that catches hold, and is difficult to let go of.

Private jet companies are coming up with new ways to attract busy global passengers with no time for delay.

It’s no secret that top management of increasingly globalised businesses require maximum flexibility of movement. And it’s no secret that check-in procedures for commercial flights are becoming ever more complicated – a frenetic businessperson with a first class ticket for an international flight and an economy class, flip-flop wearing tourist must both be at the airport at least two hours before departure and go through the same check-in and security processes.

What may come as a surprise, however, is that more people – including those in the Czech Republic – are leaving the long lines in favor of the quick access and better value of private jets.

In the Czech Republic, “the private jet business is booming right now, with growth around 15% per year on average,” explains Brian Silverman of Jet Executive Transport. His company provides private aircraft charters for VIPs, celebrities, business executives, heads of state, government officials, and professional sports teams. It also arranges jet charters for special travel groups of any size to any destination. An established global network allows flights to depart and arrive in locations across the world. “This growth
is even higher in some areas where standard commercial airline connections are limited. There are secondary cities where there is substantial commercial activity and wealth, but
not a lot of easy transportation options,” he adds.

Using private jets indeed does have practical advantages. Departure times can be determined by the client and they offer the ability to fly closer to final destinations or to smaller airports instead of major hubs. And they also offer return flights the very same day, thereby saving the cost of a hotel.

There are also the kinds of special services appealing especially to wealthy travellers: airport pickups, and meals from a client’s choice of restaurant. Additionally, private jets can be booked at short notice, up to 24 hours before departure. In many cases renting a private jet can even save you money. With a group of eight people renting a Lear jet you can often beat the prices of commercial airline fares.

CEE increase

In Central and Eastern Europe (CEE) there has been a noticeable increase in business jet customers, according to ABS Jets. “The most typical clients are those from large corporations that send their top management to various business meetings,” explains Jan Váňa, commercial director of the company. “Due to the high level of investment opportunities in the CEE countries, management often needs to travel to destinations in the middle of nowhere – places where there are no scheduled airlines available.”

However, the landscape is becoming more competitive every year as VIPs and professionals are seeing the benefits of private jet travel. “This competition is great for discerning private jet travellers,” Jet Executive Transport’s Silverman acknowledges. “However, it means there is more choice of aircraft and availability. The number of aircraft operating out of Prague, for example, has doubled in the past year. The Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Hungary are all seeing new aircraft operators springing up, each utilizing different types of aircraft that cater to different types of flight requirements based on range, efficiency, or cabin size.”

In fact, NetJets, the largest operator of business jets and private jets in Europe, made 5,700 private jet flights in Central and Eastern Europe during 2007. “This means an increase of approximately 20% compared to the year before,” explains Eva Becker, responsible for NetJets’ European PR activities. “Prague’s Ruzynĕ airport accounted for the highest number of this air traffic,” she points out.

Individual strategies

“Our mission is to create a long-term relationship with our cherished and trusted partners based on the highest quality service, discretion, attention to detail, ultimate safety standards, and real value for the money,” Silverman says. “In part, this means being flexible and finding the right type of aircraft needed for each individual flight. It also means making sure the price point is attractive and has appropriate value.”

A different tack is taken by NetJets Europe. It offers its clients the choice between co-ownership of a private jet and a card program. A client can acquire a share in ownership of an airplane; a share of 1/16 equals 50 flight hours per year. (Clients only have to call and the desired jet will be at their disposal within 10 hours in Europe or the United States.) For clients who fly less than 50 hours per year, the card program allows them to acquire the right to use 25 flight hours. They can use this credit within 12 months and have no other long term obligations. They only pay for the flight hours they actually use.

A growing outlook

“The business jet market will certainly continue to enjoy significant growth in the CEE countries – especially in Russia, because of the growth of local economies,” predicts Jan Váňa of ABS Jets. “There is the ever-increasing number of private individuals with high income who require new leisure and business destinations and who enjoy the flexibility an discreetness of business aviation compared with commercial airlines.”

Brian Silverman from Jet Executive Transport agrees: “The trend towards private jets will continue as private aircraft become more affordable for a wider range of professional and VIP travellers. Newer models of jets – both bigger and more efficient – are just coming on the market now, so we anticipate this growth trend to last for several more years, at least.”

The panorama of azure skies and lush green foliage converge with the rolling Indian Ocean surf. Welcome to the idyllic Amanusa Resort on the southern tip of the island of Bali, “the peaceful isle.”

Amanusa Resort is one of 18 Amanresorts, and this one prides itself on its balance of physical beauty and spiritual roots, according to founder Adrian Zecha. At Amanusa you’ll find the art of the bale, perfected. Bales, known as cabanas or gazebos in other cultures, are a kind of traditional symbol of Bali. They’re usually made of local teak or coconut wood and topped with a thatched roof; Amanusa makes the most of its bales by creatively adapting them to the special needs of refuges from a stressful world, who start to relax just by spotting the nearest bale awaiting them on the shoreline.

A bale can be used as a private retreat, a room of one’s own just for reading, writing postcards, meditating, napping,or just plain decompressing. Amanusa’s Beach Club’s 10
private bales are each fitted with plush mattresses and thick roll cushions, according to resort personnel. Visitors can roll out a mattress, stretch out, and relax, in between dips in the safe lagoon or leisurely strolls along the white sand beach, and then return to the bale for refreshments or a light meal. (Each beach bale is outfitted with a ceramic pot of frangipani water to wash away the sand.) Visitors can also enjoy a massage in the privacy of the bale to the accompanying sound of gentle waves of the Indian Ocean. The trained Amanusa masseuses combine Swedish and traditional Balinese massage techniques.

For more active guests, the tennis center provides two all weather tennis courts, and so there’s another bale between the courts for shady breaks, complete with iced chrysanthemum tea and other refreshers.

Traditionally, each Balinese village has a larger bale which serves as a kind of community gathering center, and Amanusa resort has borrowed a bit of this authentic culture for its luncheon facilities, a larger, dining bale with its rattan-screen windbreak. After lunch, during low tide guests can walk out to the coral reef for a quick dip to look at the teeming fish; athigh tide, they can make use of the snorkeling equipment to swim out and explore.

But there’s more to Bali than its bales. And that includes the more conventional aspects of luxury vacations. At Amanusa, each of the 35 spacious suites mixes up a peaceful palette of serenity with smoothly blended crème walls, beige thatched ceilings, and mahogany furniture. The bathroom beckons to guests once they catch the hint of the scent of frangipanis evoked by the hot bath water awaiting in the marble-tiled sunken bathtub. Glass doors open up to phenomenal views of the sparkling crystal-blue waters of the Indian Ocean or the rolling glistening fairways of the Bali Golf and Country Club.

The bales of Bali and Amanusa provide the perfect setting for a tranquil holiday escape to “the peaceful isle.”

There was a time, not so very long ago, when people walked from place to place. Hard as it is to imagine, a 15-kilometer jaunt to the nearest market town was not uncommon. Coaches, carts, and even horses were hard to come by, and a world where using feet as recreation rather than out of necessity was unimaginable.

But the village of Sopotnice has decided to revive the walking tradition with its annual Three Castle Walk. Every year in May, thousands of people converge on the small village in the foothills of the Orlice Mountains to walk or bike 15, 30, or 50 kilometer routes to three of the most ancient and interesting castles in the region. But you can take your own Three Castle Walk any day of the year.

Although Sopotnice is the traditional starting point of this walk, it’s just as practical to start in Potštejn, which, frankly, has more to offer the traveler, including two good restaurants, a sweets shop, and two clean and reasonably priced hotels.

Potštejn

The Robber Knight Mikuláš z Potštejna lived in a magnificent castle on a hill above a bend in the Orlice River. He and his father were avid opponents of the parvenu, King John of Luxembourg. But somehow Mikuláš managed to get into the good graces of the king’s son, the Moravian Margrave Charles. That stood him in good stead when Mikuláš killed a merchant from the silver-mining town of Kutná Hora.

Under ordinary circumstances, a noble could expect to get away with a stiff fine for killing a merchant. Unfortunately for Mikuláš, his victim belonged to the class of rich silver merchants whom King John liked to fleece on his rare visits to his kingdom. Thanks to the intercession of the young Margrave Charles, Mikuláš got out of his mess with his head sitting on his neck. But King John recouped his losses by confiscating Mikuláš’s property. This irked the knight. He tore up the eviction papers, moved back into the old homestead, and decided to go into business for himself.

Back then, there were only two ways for landless knights to make good: robbery in times of war and robbery in times ofpeace. Mikuláš chose the latter option and did quite well for several years, lightening the loads of trade caravans en route to Poland.

Eventually, word got back to his royal friend, now King Charles. Irked that his good will was being abused so callously, in 1339 he took up residence in the priory of the nearby village of Sopotnice and besieged the fortress. It took nine months of hard work, mainly because Mikuláš refused to give up.

In the end, Charles, who had spent several years besieging in Italy and was up to date on the latest techniques, had a tunnel dug right up to the battlements and blew up the entire castle.

He never managed to bring Mikuláš to justice, however; the knight is said to have died in the ruins. A few years later, Charles, perhaps recalling that there had been two sides to the Potštejn story, returned much of the property he had confiscated to Mikuláš’s widow and, in 1355, rebuilt the castle to be even grander than it was before.

Of Mikuláš of Potštejn, all that is left is the epithet of “Robber Knight” and the family crest, a bull’s head with a ring through its nose, found on the castle gate and in various places around the town of Potštejn; and legends of a buried treasure, which was why the castle was taken apart, stone by stone, by the Count Hasdrubal de Chamaré, an inveterate gambler.

Today it stands, a magnificent ruin, on an escarpment in a bend of the Orlice River. The charming tiny spa town of Potštejn, unviolated by modern socialist architecture, is a maze of tiny wooden cabins huddled along the hillside, around a 17th century well, watched over by a Baroque St. Florian, the patron saint of firemen; and the ubiquitous bull’s head.

You can reach the town from Sopotnice by following the river downstream, crossing the main road and following the purple bike path around the back of the hill around the Vochtánka summer camp, complete with teepees, a bar, country western music on most summer nights, and even, on rodeo nights, a mechanical bull. Yes, rodeo. The foothills of the Orlice Mountains are full of horse farms – and most of the owners are cowboys at heart.

Stay on the main path, flanked on the right by the burbling Orlice and on the left by an ancient millrace. Eventually it turns into a magnificent alley of ancient sycamores and linden trees that will bring you into the center of Potštejn.

You can fortify yourself in either of two restaurants at the crossroad. The chic Hotel Praha has a large, sycamore shaded garden and the remnants of an old wooden promenade, sadly in need of restoration. The more proletarian Slavie serves a garlic soup bound to bring tears to your eyes.

Once you have had your fill of Potštejn, head up the main road back in the direction of Sopotnice, but take a left, following the red marker, toward the tiny village of Brná. Walk back to the Orlice River and then head upstream, through another magnificent valley, this time flanked by ancient fir trees, until you come to the village of Litice.

Litice

This tiny village of no more than 150 inhabitants – all ofwhom seem to be in a friendly “prettiest garden” contest – nestles in the bosom of the fir-covered hills like a corsage. It’s a steep 15-minute hike up to the dramatic castle, which is not much more than a drawbridge and four walls, topped with a handsome new split-shingle roof.

A better time investment is the pub at its foot, which serves Pilsner on tap and pickled cheese worth every step of the walk from Potštejn. The shaggy dog who patrols the quiet street and gravely sniffs newcomers is named Míša.

The town’s hydroelectric plant is over 100 years old, fed by an old channel that runs straight through the hill that the castle stands on (legend has it that it was dug by Turkish prisoners in order to supply the castle with water – which somehow doesn’t mesh historically, but sounds nice, nonetheless). From the channel, the water falls some 100 feet into the well of the hydroelectric plant, turning a huge turbine and generating electricity. If you are technically inclined, ask one of the villagers, who will find the caretaker, or take you there himself.

Further up the road is a pretty railway station. The decision you make here separates the real walkers from the mere amblers. An hourly train will run the less ambitious walkers back to Sopotnice in 10 minutes (the pub has a train schedule).

Another option is to walk to the southern edge of the village and follow the yellow markers back along the other side of the Orlice River. This path runs higher up the mountainside, through tunnels of greenery, punctuated in summer by large patches of violets, wild strawberries, lilies of-the-valley – and of course mushrooms. A brisk 45-minute walk (without strawberry/mushroom stops) will bring you back to Sopotnice.Those who prefer a challenge will continue on an easy 18-kilometer stroll (if you don’t count the first kilometer – a murderous climb out of the Orlice Valley from Litice) through gently rolling meadows, shady forests, and charming villages to the third castle, Žampach.

Žampach

Above: The charming town of Letohrad offers a visual feast of classic Czech architecture

This was the lair of Mikuláš of Potštejn’s ideological follower, Jan of Smojno, also known as Pancíř. In 1355, thanks to various valiant deeds, he was rewarded with a heavy golden chain by Emperor Charles IV.

Unfortunately for him, Pancíř was not the type to not let this kind of thing go to his head. In addition to wearing the chain night and day to remind all and sundry that he was in the Emperor’s good graces, he took up highway robbery.

This time, the siege did not take nine months. The Emperor pulled up to the castle with an army on a Friday, demanding unconditional surrender, and by Sunday, Pancíř, expecting to receive mercy, did so.

He might actually have been pardoned if he hadn’t worn that gold chain around his neck. In a rare display of black humor, the Emperor hung the robber knight on the nearest tree – by the golden chain.

Nothing but a few stone arches hidden among the trees are left of Žampach today. Still, the magnificent view of the Orlice Mountain range is well worth walking the extra 18
kilometers – if you like walking. At this point, traditional Three-Castle walkers turn their heads toward Sopotnice – a question of a mere 20 more kilometers, much of it a long
asphalt roads.

A better option is to continue another five kilometers to thelovely town of Letohrad, which actually boasts two sweets shops on the arcaded Baroque square. The railway station is another two kilometers down the road. If you have any energy left – or if you want to replenish your stores – stop by the large, stone barn on the hill. It is an old farmstead which now houses an excellent Museum of Traditional Handicrafts and – what is of more interest to us at this point – an excellent restaurant.

Trains from Letohrad run back to Sopotnice and Potštejn almost every hour.

always wondered what really goes on in a moravian wine cellar?

Moravia abounds in wine cellars and hospitable accommodation; and Czechs seem instinctively to know just where to go and what to do (or not) to capitalize on the benefits of their annual wine harvest.

For the rest of us, though, the idea of surrendering our sobriety to a strange host in a strange cellar in a strange language can be a little intimidating. So here are just a couple of sure bets when you want to sample the true taste of those inimitable Moravian wines . . . and the world- famous Moravian hospitality.

Penzion Moravský Sommelier in Valtice, 260 km southeast of Prague, is a friendly guesthouse which accommodates only 10 people; its private wine cellar seats a mere 20.

You will receive a warm welcome from the hosts, Radim and Yvona Štěpánek, and be escorted down the few stone steps to the family wine cellar, which dates back to 1890. A gourmet feast of Moravian delicacies spread out on the tables awaits you. When sommelier Štěpánek appears, he introduces himself and proceeds to entertain and educate wine-lovers with his commentary on all aspects of Moravian wines.

Above left: In the cellar of Penzion Moravský Sommelier, Valtice, which dates from 1890. Above right: A choice of local wines on sale in a Valtice wine shop

You can instantly perceive that this is a man who is totally absorbed in and enthusiastic about his profession.

The guests are then shown the inner realms of the bricklined cellar filled with its precious store of valuable wines. The sommelier has personally selected top-quality wines for this prestigious cellar, and presents a range of his special recommendations, white and red, to his guests. After answering questions, Štěpánek jokingly admonishes that they may certainly try to imbibe whatever remains in the bottles; but he recounts how, on one occasion, he came into the cellar in the morning to find several guests still sitting there in various stages of sobriety. With a cheery wave he leaves the wine-tasters to spend the rest of the evening in fine company.

Above: Valtice main street
But what if you don’t have time for the full overnight treatment? A stopoff, at least, at the Vinotéka Moravský Sommelier is essential. In this vinothèque on Náměstí Svobody (Freedom Square) in Valtice’s center, you may choose either to browse or buy from the 250 types of assorted wines from all the main Moravian wine-growers. There’s also a daily tasting of 10 types of Moravian wines! Emphasis is placed on the four South Moravian sub-regions: Mikulovian (Mikulov), Velkopavlovian (Velké Pavlovice), Slovan (Slovácko) and Znojemian (Znojmo). The Champions of Valtice’s Wine Fairs, the cuvée selection of grapes – Chardonnay and Veltliner – are also on offer.

Libor Nazarčuk is the patron of this wine cellar, a sommelier of enormous distinction. At Moravský Sommelier, you may thus be assured of tasting only top-quality wines that have personally been selected by a semi-finalist in the XII Concours Mondial for the Best Sommelier in the World, held on Rhodes Island in 2007.

Nazarčuk was also triple champion Sommelier of the Czech Republic from 2003–05. In addition, he was the Triple Champion of Slovakia, winning the Vinanza Trophy in Bratislava in the same years, 2003–05. Other prestigious awards have been bestowed on him at events in Brno, Pardubice, and Karlovy Vary in recent years. He is vice-president of the Association of Sommeliers of the Czech Republic. If you require any further convincing of this sommelier’s credentials, he is also a holder of the DIN, ÖNORM and ISO certificates of degustation, valid in the entire EU.
Left: “Valtice-main wine town” sign, with the church of the Holy Virgin Ascension in the background

On sale is a staggering array of wine-related items, ranging from the domestic to the imported varieties, for immediate consumption to vintage wines dating from 1950 for collectors. There are attractive gift boxes of wines, foreign wines, and Cuban cigars. Other items on sale are wine glasses, carafes and wine-related domestic gadgets. Books and magazines for the gourmet and wine connoisseur are available, as well as many types of honey, and medovina, a honey-based liqueur.

Above all, however, Valtice itself is a wine-lover’s paradise. The streets and stores all exude an odor of wine and viniculture going back to Roman times. The Valtice Wine Market, which receives international participation, is held annually in May.

Valtice is graced by the beautiful Valtice Chateau, one of the largest Baroque structures in Moravia, set in vast parkland. The National Wine Center and Wine Saloon of the Czech Republic are housed in the cellars of the chateau, where 100 of the country’s best wines are collected.
Left: Valtice Chateau

The whole Valtice-Lednice region has been added to the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list, so do visit some of the region’s attractions before heading home.